Order your fruit trees now for 2011!

In addition to our regular fruit tree collection, we are excited about our ultra dwarf line.These trees allow gardeners with even the smallest spaces to grow fruit trees.Ultra dwarf trees are self pollinating (meaning, you don’t need two to achieve fruiting), they don't require cold winters, and they produce an abundant harvest of full-sized fruit. It is not unheard of to harvest 30+ apples, 40+ apricots, 30+ pears, 90+ cherries, or 50+ plums from one small potted fruit tree!

Ultra dwarf patio fruit trees will quickly become the real jewels of any garden. If you’re interested in any of the trees listed at left, contact the Sloat Garden Center nearest you to preorder yours. Trees will arrive in January 2011. Elberta Peach and Goldmine Nectarine varieties are also available, but we do not recommend growing them in the milder winter areas. Ask your local Sloat Garden Center for further details.

PLEASE NOTE:We will take orders for Ultra dwarf trees through October 15th, 2010. Please contact your favorite Sloat Garden Center location for details.

Available:
Delicious Apple
Royal BlenheimApricot
Compact Stella Cherry
Self Fertile Bing Cherry
Bartlett Pear
D’Anjou Pear
20th Century Pear
Santa Rosa Plum

Camellia Rhododendron Season is Here

Camellias, rhododendrons and azaleas have basically the same soil and water requirements; they need acid soil with lots of organic matter in it (E.B. Stone Azalea, Camellia & Gardenia mix) and a constant moisture supply. So they need soil that is fast-draining but moisture-retentive! They need more air in their root zone than any other plant. They have a massive root system consisting of tiny shallow feeder roots. These roots are extremely efficient at extracting nutrients from their immediate area. In fact, roots will be much smaller in a benign climate because a smaller amount of nutrients is required to maintain plant health. Rhodies in an exposed/harsh climate will have a much larger root system.

Because of their dense shallow root system it is never a good idea to plant right under these plants. The ideal planting location is in filtered shade under tall trees or on the east or north side of the house or fence, out of the wind. Plant in well-amended soil with the root ball slightly above the soil level and mulch with redwood or fir bark (Peat moss is not a good addition because it sheds water as it dries out). Instead of planting in clay soil, create a raised bed to ensure good air circulation.

Plenty of regular water in the fall is the key to promote bloom next spring. Roots may dry out in our typical California summer and the plant may become susceptible to thrips. Regular summer water and misting the leaves may help prevent infestation. Some foliage droop is normal in dry weather, especially on a warm afternoon, but if leaves are still showing droop the next morning, the plant definitely needs water. A new rhodie will get its water from the original root ball. If this ball is allowed to dry out it may be difficult to wet again and may need a slow deep soak. Wind and soil salts can burn the edges of the leaves. Windburn shows up most often on new foliage, salt burn on old foliage. In very cold weather sun and wind can severely damage plants, we recommend protecting plants with Wilt-Pruf or Harvest Guard Row Cover.

Fertilize half-strength the first year. Always water first if using a water-soluble fertilizer, an organic food is a much slower gentler feed. After the plant is established feed with a 0-10-10 and FST from October-December and switch to Maxsea Acid or E.B. Stone Acid for March through September. After blossoms are finished remove the trusses (rounded clusters of blossoms). Pruning in early spring will sacrifice some flower buds but spring is the best time for extensive pruning. Most rhodies want to become small multi-trunked trees and if you wish to avoid excessive pruning it’s best to choose a smaller cultivar. If your rhodie is too big refer to Cass Turnbull’s Guide to Pruning pp. 162-172, a great gift for yourself!