Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Dischidia




Available at our 3rd Avenue location (SF)

Dischidia in Escargot is what our supplier calls Dischidia -- anepiphytic vine from the Philippines related to the Hoya. What makes itunusual (other than it is grown in a small plug of coconut husk tuckedinto a giant snail shell) is that some of its leaves blow up into akidney shaped balloon, which in nature collects rainwater. It alsoproduces clusters of carmine colored flowers. It has a wire hangerready to go right up in an east or north facing window. We try to seekout the unusual and exotic at our 3rd Avenue location.
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Tuesday, March 30, 2010

The Secret is in the Soil

The Secret is in the Soil
What is soil?

True soil that plants thrive in is a rich substance, teeming with microscopic organisms, bacteria, insects, minerals, and decayed plant material. A single teaspoon of soil contains over a billion micro-organisms! It is a complex living world that provides plant roots with the nutrients they need to grow and synergistic relationships with microbes and fungi that help them to uptake these nutrients. When soil is healthy and has this kind of complexity, there is a greater chance of growing healthy vegetables, herbs, and flowers in your garden that have vigor and a natural ability to fend off pests and diseases.


How can you build great soil in your garden?
A healthy garden has soil that is a treasure chest of all the above things. You can help to create it by:
• Adding 2"-4" of compost or well-rotted manure to your garden each season (This is key, whether your natural soil is clay-like, sandy, or nutrient-poor.)
• Boost soil nutrition with natural amendments such as earthworm castings, seaweed extract, or fish emulsion.
• Increasing mineral content by adding rock phosphate, greensand, or rock dust every few seasons.
• Allowing earthworms and all the tiny living things that you can't see to thrive by minimizing tilling (and never till wet soil).
• Eliminating or limiting your use of pesticides and herbicides
• Mulching garden areas in fall (with grass, leaves, hay, untreated bark, etc.)
• Allowing frequently planted areas to 'rest' after a couple seasons by leaving them fallow or planting with cover crops (which will revitalize soil by adding nutrients after they are turned in).


What about nutrient amendments?
One of the biggest mistakes new gardeners make when preparing a garden area is to go overboard with fertilizer or manure addition before planting. Soil that is too rich in nitrogen may inhibit seed germination, 'burn' young seedlings, or may cause a lot of initial leafy (but weak) plant growth while delaying flowering and crop production. (Never use un-composted manure in your garden. It may contain harmful pathogens.)

In many cases, an initial addition of compost and side dressings of compost every couple weeks is all that your plants will need during the season. An exception would be a 'heavy feeder' like corn that appreciates some fertilizer at the start and frequent booster applications.
For best results with vegetables and flowers, follow fertilizing instructions inside each seed packet that have been recommended for that variety. (Herbs generally like lean soils and do not require rich soil or fertilizer.)


If you use commercial fertilizer, apply at the recommended rate and recommended time for the plant's growth cycle. A balanced fertilizer contains fairly even amounts of these three basic key nutrients:


N = Nitrogen (promotes leafy growth)

P = Phosphorus (promotes root and flower growth)

K = Potassium (promotes general health and disease resistance)


What about soil pH?
A neutral (7.0) or slightly acidic (6.0 – 6.5) pH is fine for most flower and vegetable crops. If your soil is too acidic (common in the moister eastern U.S.), lime can be added to raise the pH. If your soil pH is too alkaline, (common in the dryer western U.S.), it can be lowered by adding sulfur. Using raised beds filled with compost is a way get around natural soil pH issues.


Testing your Soil
If you'd like to have your soil tested for nutrient deficiency, you can find an inexpensive pH test kit at your local garden center or nursery. Your local county extension agency usually provides this service for a small fee. You can find a link to your local office here: http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/
With these basic tips, you are well on your way to a healthy garden with soil that will help your plants thrive!


© 2010 Botanical Interests, Inc. http://www.botanicalinterests.com/

Save the SF Botanical Garden



Why We Need Action
The fiscal crisis that our nation and city face is hitting every agency and the Botanical Garden faces damaging cuts. If we don't do something to increase our revenue, the city will be forced to layoff critical employees and the Garden itself will begin to deteriorate. San Francisco would lose the unique urban oasis that the Garden provides, as much of this beautiful space could be destroyed and invaluable collections would be lost.

Read more here...sign the petition.

Find the right tomato for your microclimate

Excellent article about growing tomatoes in Sunday's SF Chronicle...we carry a wide tomato selection in our stores. Stop by -- we'll help you get started!

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2010/03/28/HOA61CH8F2.DTL

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Colorful Container Gardens with Jennie Strobel on Live Well

Sloat Garden Center container garden expert Jennie Strobel shows Lisa Quinn how to plant up colorful containers. Take a look! http://bit.ly/bzs93F

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

A tutorial for beginning gardeners!


So, where do you start your adventure into gardening? Here are a few ideas!

Begin collecting pictures of gardens you like. Then, talk to our staff -- they'll help you figure out the exposure (sun) and what other factors (like soil, wind, tall buildings, etc.) that can influence plant choices.

Our staff can also help when deciding the theme of your garden. Choosing a theme will focus your plant choices and make shopping easier. Your garden will look better and it will be easier to work in it. At our stores you will also be able to observe which plants are in season and ready to be planted. While we are lucky enough to live where so many plants flourish, there are optimum times to plant natives, wildflowers, vegetables and fruit trees. We will help you work with Nature’s rhythm.

A few of the most basic gardening tools are gloves, trowel, shovel, pruners, a hose and hose nozzle…and the Sunset Western Garden Book. This is a great reference book, with explanations of techniques and terms, as well as the descriptions and requirements of thousands of plants. The descriptions will help when choosing plants that will be happy in your garden.

Feeding your soil is crucial. Adding compost or chicken manure or Sloat Forest Mulch will help stimulate soil life. The more organic matter in the soil, the more water it can hold and the more nutrients it will have.

Watering correctly is probably the most important part of gardening success. Water in the morning, water at the drip line. A new vegetable garden may need frequent, almost daily watering, depending on how hot and windy it is. Most established landscape plants can be watered deeply, but less often. A moisture meter can be very helpful if you are not sure.

Gardening is a journey, come and have fun with us!

SFGate: Mayor's agriculture plan soon to bear fruit

We like it! http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/03/23/BA4V1CJP4C.DTL&tsp=1

Our new spring commercial

It's Spring! Check out our new commercial running in Marin...http://bit.ly/9Ftpbx

Friday, March 19, 2010

The Doctor is in

Join us at our Danville location on Saturday, March 27 from 10 am - 4pm
828 Diablo Road, Danville, CA
925-743-0288

Come in and get your questions answered by plant pros! Special guest Frank and Grossman Landscaping will be with us to answer your questions and to give demonstrations on hardscapes and irrigation.

Spring is almost here!

Just one more day until spring officially arrives. Time to get out into the garden!!

Monday, March 15, 2010

Top Ten Reasons Why School Gardens are an Excellent Idea

Top Ten Reasons Why School Gardens are an Excellent Idea http://www.betterschoolfood.org/ )

1. Magic happens when a child harvests a vegetable he or she has planted and nurtured. The child will want to eat it! It will increase interest and improve attitudes towards eating fruits and vegetables.

2. Students will learn where food really comes from - a carrot grows in the ground, a green bean on a vine and Brussels sprouts on a stalk!

3. School gardens foster an increased awareness of environmental issues. They will learn to respect and care for the soil, where our food comes from.

4. They will get to share their bounty with their classmates. Eating with their peers is one of the most important motivators for children to try new foods.

5. It gives children an opportunity to be outside and away from computer screens and, at the same time, significantly increase science achievement scores.

6. They improve self esteem, behavior, social skills and interpersonal relationships as well as help develop life skills including working with groups.

7. Research by Columbia Teachers College shows that hands-on gardening and cooking programs are the two things that are actually effective in behavior change; they get kids to eat more vegetables.

8. The gardens are beautiful spaces that connect students to their school and help them develop a sense of pride and ownership, which in turn improves attitudes towards school and discourages vandalism.

9. They provide opportunities for community involvement including neighbors, volunteers, parents, and local businesses.

10. School gardens promote good nutrition and exercise. The health of our kids and the health of our planet are fundamentally connected.

How flowers conquered the world

For all you botany geeks...fascinating stuff.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/earth/hi/earth_news/newsid_8143000/8143095.stm

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Keeping oxalis out!


Dear Garden Guru,

I have very abundant oxalis in my garden beds. We just moved to this flat, our neighbors have just been spraying weed killer every now and again to keep it at bay. They haven't planted the beds and stopped the weed killer when we told them we wanted to plant the beds. I want to plant vegetables and flowers including, bulbs, sweet peas along the fence and Abutilon, clematis etc. Any thoughts? I have two sections of about 15 by 5 ft beds.


Dear Nalani-

You should attempt to dig as much of the Oxalis out as possible. Mature plants have many small bulblets at the base. Sifting the soil after you have dug what you can will help capture any loose bulblets. Cover your beds with the lasagna method of mulching. First wet newspaper, then cardboard, then compost or forest mulch, then more newspaper, planting mix, cardboard, then compost. You can plant directly into your lasagna layers. Any Oxalis trying to resprout will be depressed by the mulch layers.

Thanks for gardening with us,
The Sloat Garden Guru

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Watch out for ticks!

Watch out for ticks!
(by www.lymedisease.org)


"Ticks on vegetation and wood are spreading Lyme disease and co-infections, illnesses that can rob us of our health. So far, five San Franciscans have been infected in San Francisco. Tick repellent is recommended on us and our indoor/outdoor pets. For more information: www.lymedisease.org, sf_seal@sbcglobal.net.

We instruct people how to protect against tick bites. If you're ever interested in printing a list of protective measures for us, pets and environment, let me know. We also have monthly support/advocacy meetings in SF."

Fine living: Build a better raised bed (coming soon to Sloat Garden Center)



Fine living: Build a better raised bed
PJ Bremier

Marin Independent Journal
Posted: 03/05/2010 09:27:59 PM PST


What do you do when you want a raised garden bed but you - and your husband - don't know the first thing about building one?

If you're Jill Plumb of Woodland, near Sacramento, you invent the M Brace, a no-muss, no-fuss, no-tools system of four slotted braces that easily accepts lumber up to 12 feet long.

Plumb, at Sloat Garden Center in Kentfield last week, said she got the idea for the M Brace while contemplating her dilemma - an easy way to install a raised garden bed - and happened to glimpse at her paper napkin holder.

She figured that four corner braces with a slot in the middle, like a napkin holder, would do the trick. She was right, and now she's selling them.

Her own 4-foot square M Brace raised bed has yielded quantities of broccoli, cauliflower, lettuces, green onions, brussels sprouts and herbs since October when she started her company.

"Raised beds are the most efficient and, frankly the most enjoyable way of growing vegetables," Plumb says, and she swears by heirloom vegetables. "I really recommend them. They have that wonderful flavor that many of the genetically altered ones don't. They're delicious. Our cauliflower tasted just like butter.
The M Brace is made in America of biodegradable recycled sheet metal, withstands snow, is portable and reusable, and sets up in minutes. It's available in a choice of eight simple laser-cut designs, including swirls, squiggles, dots, a sun and a carrot and is intended to rust over time, although a rust-inhibitor can be applied.

It will be available at various Sloat Garden Centers beginning in April for $165 a set. For more information, call 454-0262 or go to http://www.sloatgardens.com/ or http://artofthegarden.net.

Monday, March 8, 2010

Small Space Edibles: The Salad Box

From the blog City Dirt: Adventures in Urban Gardening by Maria Finn












Salad greens are very easy to start by seed and can be grown indoors near a sunny window or outdoors on a small balcony since they don't require pollination. You can either start seeds in small pots and transfer them to a larger container when they are ready, or just plant them right in to the soil. The latter is the easiest way for small space indoor gardening.

During peak summer months lettuces tend to "bolt" or grow upright and develop a bitter taste and tough texture, so plan a box for spring or early summer, harvest, and then sow new seeds or add new starts to replant for an autumn salad box. Mix varied colors and leaf textures in your boxes for aesthetics. Different greens will also offer a variety of textures and flavors that will make for an interesting salad. Some greens, such as arugula and escarole, tend to be on the bitter side, while those in the mustard family are spicy and others, like red or green leaf, romaine and butter lettuces are sweeter and mild. A little chervil adds a nice hint of anise to your salad. As well, I like to add edible flowers like nasturtium for a spicy flavor, or borage for a sweeter one. (The flowers will need to be outside, since they need pollination, but the greens can be grown indoors.)

Either buy starts from a local nursery, or order your seeds. The starts are bigger, but I like the variety offered by seed companies. A few good places to try are Seed Saver's Exchange, Kitchen Garden Seeds, and The Cook's Garden.













Instructions


1. Make sure your container has drainage holes in the bottom and (if it's indoors) that there is something to catch the water run-off. If the container doesn't have drainage, drill holes in the bottom.

2. If you'd like, layer landscaper's cloth along the bottom so that when the water runs out, not too much soil goes with it.

3. Fill your container with good organic potting soil. To mix your own potting soil, see this post. Then, if using seeds, poke holes into the soil with your finger. Space them about 4 inches apart.

4. Sprinkle a few seeds into the hole, and then pat the soil back over the hole. (If you are using starts, see the Strawberry Box instructions for loosing the roots, then plant.) Water!

5. When plants start appearing, cull out some of the new sprouts, leaving the largest, healthiest shoots.

6. Keep soil moist to the touch.

7. You can harvest mixed salad greens when they are young and tender. Don't cut or pick the entire plant; rather, pull off the outer leaves and the let the plants keep growing. (The box shown in Photo 9 above provides about one small salad a day, or a larger salad every two days.)

8. This salad planter shown in Photo 10 has some greens that are particularly good for cooler weather. They include Joi Choi, which is tolerant to heat and cold, Giant Red Mustard, my favorite in salads, Frisse, as well as arugula (although sometimes my arugula goes to seed and sprouts yellow flowers). I clip those flowers and use them in salads as they have a nice spicy flavor. This planter also grows radicchio (this is great in a salad with pomegranate seeds in the winter), and red and green leaf lettuce.

Additional Notes: This box can take some dappled shade, but should get about 6 hours of sun a day in cooler temperatures. Keep the soil moist to touch. In really hot, sunny places, your greens won't be happy in peak summer, so put some sun-loving herbs in them. If you live in a cool place or have partial shade, go ahead with your autumn replanting a little earlier. Plant your box with tatsoi, escarole, and mâche spinach, and chard for an early winter salad box.



This post was originally published on Apartment Therapy and is from the book, A Little Piece of Earth, How To Grow Your Own Food in Small Spaces by by Maria Finn.

Which houseplants where??

From Weekend Gardener
http://www.weekendgardener.net/houseplant-minicourse/houseplant1.htm

A list of plants that are better suited to certain parts of the house. This will give you a good idea of what to buy as you start to grow stunning houseplants.

List of Plants
Listed by areas


Cool - Bright Light - Bedroom

* Cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum)
* Ivy (Fatshedera lizei)
* Fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrid)
* Pink Jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum)
* Prayer Plant (Maranta leuconeura)
* Geranium (Pelargonium)
* African Violet (Saintpaulia)
* Peace Lily (Spathipyllum)

Cool - Sunny - Room

* Asparagus Fern (Asparagus densiflorus)
* Cactus
* Christmas cactus
* Clivia (Clivia miniata)
* English Ivy (Hedera helix)
* Swedish Ivy (Plectranthus australis)

Cool - Moderate Light - Entryway

* Japanese Aralia (Fatsia japonica)
* Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum)
* Umbrella Plant (Cyperus alternifolius)
* Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema)
* Cast-Iron Plant (Aspidistra)
* Kangaroo Vine (Cissus antarctica)
* English Ivy (Hedera helix)
* Wandering Jew (Tradescantia fluminensis)

Cool - Dark - Room

* Cast-Iron Plant (Aspidistra)
* Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema)
* Dracaena
* Snake Plant (Sansevieria)
* Philodendron
* Pothos (Epipremnum)

Warm - Bright Light - Steamy - Bathroom

* Cape Primrose (Streptocarpus)
* Coleus
* Croton (Codiaeum variegatum)
* Ferns
* Rose of China (Hibiscus rosasinensis)
* Maidenhair Fern (Adiantum)
* Bird's Nest Fern (Asplenium nidus)
* Peacock Plant (Calathea)
* Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea)
* Kangaroo Vine (Cissus antarctica)
* Umbrella Plant (Cyperus alternifolius)
* Golden Pothos (Epipremnum)
* Creeping Fig (Ficus pumila)
* Prayer Plant (Maranta leuconeura)
* Boston Fern (Nephrolepis)
* Peperomia
* Philodendron

Warm - Sunny - Room

* Bromeliads
* Cactus
* Citrus
* Crown-of-thorns (Euphorbia)
* Grape Ivy (Hedera)
* Wax Plant (Hoya carnosa)
* Jade Plant (Crassula)
* Nerve Plant (Fittonia verschaffeltii)
* Ponytail Plant (Beaucarnea recurvata)
* Fig (Ficus)
* Begonia
* Dumb Cane (Dieffenbachia)
* Corn Plant (Dracaena)
* Crown of Thorns (Euphorbia)
* Philodendron

Warm - Poor to Moderate Light - Kitchen

* Begonia
* English Ivy (Hedera helix)
* Herbs
* Impatiens (Impatiens walleriana)
* African Violet (Saintpaulia)
* Wandering Jew (Tradescantia fluminensis)
* Silvery Inch Plant (Zebrina pendula)

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Our Hot Deals of the Week will be announced tomorrow!


Our Hot Deals of the Week will be announced tomorrow! Make sure you're signed up to receive all the Sloat Garden Center enewsletters at www.sloatgardens.com -- Stay tuned!

Monday, March 1, 2010

Our March Plant Pick of the Month is Asparagus!


This spring vegetable will produce years of fresh asparagus for your kitchen.

There is a richness to domestic, fat asparagus and skinnier homegrown spears. Asparagus officinalis is available for planting this early spring from crowns. They are planted in deep trenches and compost/soil is added as the spears grow, very much like building up a potato bin or bed. Do not be tempted to harvest the first year as the young spears must grow and leaf out, providing stored energy in the roots for the following years harvest. Once established, you can harvest from your original planting for 10-12 years!

Keep Asparagus well watered and well fed. Asparagus grows tall after the initial spear production in spring with fine feathery foliage to 4’ tall. It looks best planted along a fence with other tall growing flowers such as nicotiana, larkspur, cosmos and zinnia.

We also love Asparagus densiflorus (Meyer or Foxtail fern) and Asparagus setaceaus (Asparagus fern). Yes, they are related to the vegetable and really not ferns. We call them “ferns” because of the lacy foliage. They are really lilies! These ornamental plants have been popular a long time because they tolerate many exposures and are easy to care for. A. setaceus is hardy and versatile as a hanging basket, ground cover or container companion. In summer it has small white blooms (that do look like little lilies) followed by red berries. Foxtail fern is picturesque and adds great structure to beds and containers. These plants tolerate full sun on the coast but prefer some afternoon shade inland. Though they will tolerate drought, average water and regular feeding keep them looking their best.