Want a sneak peek at our new print edition of the Gardener's Notebook? Click the image below.
Thursday, February 25, 2010
Sneak Peek : New Gardener's Notebook print edition!
Want a sneak peek at our new print edition of the Gardener's Notebook? Click the image below.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Thursday, February 18, 2010
MEALYBUGS—BAD BUGS
MEALYBUGS—BAD BUGS
By Nanette Londeree
By Nanette Londeree
Marin Master Gardeners
It’s that chilly time of the year when we gardeners daydream about the upcoming spring, plant seeds for cool season veggies, finish pruning shrubs and roses, and dust our oft-forgotten houseplants – those splashes of green that enliven an interior window sill or cozy corner. Taking a closer look at our indoor greens may bring about a surprise or two, especially when dust isn’t the only thing you find.
Nestled in the cracks and crevices of plant stems you may spy some fluffy white material - like tiny pieces of cotton hugging growing tips, stems, leaves, leaf axils and the flowers of your plants. You might notice stickiness on the plant, some blackish mold and even ants. If you do, looks like you’ve discovered mealybugs.
Feeding on a wide range of outdoor plants like gardenia, chrysanthemum, geranium, gladiolus, grape, apple, peach, pear, plum, maples and yews, mealybugs are also serious pests of orchids and other indoor plants - African violets, begonias, ferns and palms, just to name a few. Though not true bugs (hence the one word name) these insects are related to aphids and scale in the Order Homoptera, all of them having sucking mouthparts and producing honeydew. That sweet waste product attracts ants and supports the growth of sooty mold; and if that’s not bad enough, their sucking can result in a decrease in plant vigor and weakening or loss of leaves, buds and flowers.
The elongated and segmented soft-bodied, grayish adult insect is about 0.05 to 0.2 inch long, and may have wax filaments radiating from the body. The slow moving, wingless females are covered with whitish, mealy or cottony wax. They may lay eggs or bear live young. The nymphs or crawlers, appearing as diminutive adults, are the most active stage and can move between plants in search of feeding places. They are adept at hiding on roots and rhizomes deep in soil or potting media and under the lips of pots. These pests congregate in large numbers, and under optimal conditions, can produce several generations each year.
Mealybugs can be easily confused with the wooly apple aphid, both sporting the unusual waxy coating. Their body shapes, however, are quite different – all aphids are pear-shaped with long legs and antennae with their telltale cornicles on the hind end of the body.
Outside, mealybugs have a host of natural predators – parasitic wasps, brown and green lacewings, lady beetles and the mealybug destroyer (Cryptolaemus montrouzieri), as well as weather, especially heavy rains, to keep their numbers low. Indoors, they can be difficult to control. Management of the pest is essentially the same as it is for aphids, starting with a blast of water to knock them off the plant. A solution of rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl) can be applied directly on the pest either with a light spray, a cottonsoaked swab or soft infant’s toothbrush and repeated once or twice at weekly intervals to ensure removal of recently hatched crawlers.
Moving up the integrated pest management ladder, an insecticidal soap or narrow-range horticultural oil can be effective in smothering the little beasts, and if none of these methods work, a systemic insecticide may be effective. If you’ve got mealybugs on your houseplants, be sure to sanitize the entire pot and treat the surface of the soil. Also manage for ants.
Now, back to daydreaming about spring and planting those vegetable seeds.
Nestled in the cracks and crevices of plant stems you may spy some fluffy white material - like tiny pieces of cotton hugging growing tips, stems, leaves, leaf axils and the flowers of your plants. You might notice stickiness on the plant, some blackish mold and even ants. If you do, looks like you’ve discovered mealybugs.
Feeding on a wide range of outdoor plants like gardenia, chrysanthemum, geranium, gladiolus, grape, apple, peach, pear, plum, maples and yews, mealybugs are also serious pests of orchids and other indoor plants - African violets, begonias, ferns and palms, just to name a few. Though not true bugs (hence the one word name) these insects are related to aphids and scale in the Order Homoptera, all of them having sucking mouthparts and producing honeydew. That sweet waste product attracts ants and supports the growth of sooty mold; and if that’s not bad enough, their sucking can result in a decrease in plant vigor and weakening or loss of leaves, buds and flowers.
The elongated and segmented soft-bodied, grayish adult insect is about 0.05 to 0.2 inch long, and may have wax filaments radiating from the body. The slow moving, wingless females are covered with whitish, mealy or cottony wax. They may lay eggs or bear live young. The nymphs or crawlers, appearing as diminutive adults, are the most active stage and can move between plants in search of feeding places. They are adept at hiding on roots and rhizomes deep in soil or potting media and under the lips of pots. These pests congregate in large numbers, and under optimal conditions, can produce several generations each year.
Mealybugs can be easily confused with the wooly apple aphid, both sporting the unusual waxy coating. Their body shapes, however, are quite different – all aphids are pear-shaped with long legs and antennae with their telltale cornicles on the hind end of the body.
Outside, mealybugs have a host of natural predators – parasitic wasps, brown and green lacewings, lady beetles and the mealybug destroyer (Cryptolaemus montrouzieri), as well as weather, especially heavy rains, to keep their numbers low. Indoors, they can be difficult to control. Management of the pest is essentially the same as it is for aphids, starting with a blast of water to knock them off the plant. A solution of rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl) can be applied directly on the pest either with a light spray, a cottonsoaked swab or soft infant’s toothbrush and repeated once or twice at weekly intervals to ensure removal of recently hatched crawlers.
Moving up the integrated pest management ladder, an insecticidal soap or narrow-range horticultural oil can be effective in smothering the little beasts, and if none of these methods work, a systemic insecticide may be effective. If you’ve got mealybugs on your houseplants, be sure to sanitize the entire pot and treat the surface of the soil. Also manage for ants.
Now, back to daydreaming about spring and planting those vegetable seeds.
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
Late winter and early spring are the optimal feeding times for Edibles!
Late winter and early spring are the optimal times to feed and groom many of our perennial edibles like blueberries, grapes, herbs, artichokes and strawberries.
Blueberries would like to be fed in early spring (March) with an acid fertilizer such as Azalea Camellia food or Maxsea Acid. Apply again in May. Acidify the soil in early spring with FST. Blueberries are best pruned in late winter (February). You want to remove 1/3 to 1/2 the growth. Remove non-vigorous, twiggy wood. Remove low, basal growth. Select the best branches that have the best color. Remove twigs with a blotchy appearance. Head back 1/2 the best canes to stimulate side branching.
Grapes (which require no feeding during the growing season) will benefit from an application of EB Stone All Purpose Fertilizer 5-5-5 now. Pruning the canes or spurs should be done before the buds swell.
Strawberries and artichokes should be fed with the All Purpose as well but will benefit from an additional application of Seaweed Extract or Kelp Meal. Apply the fertilizer and then cover with a fresh layer of mulch such as Planting Compost or Forest Mulch Plus. Apply bug bait such as Sluggo Plus or Green light Slug and Snail. These baits control ants and sowbugs as well as snails, all of which can be problems.
Woody herbs such as rosemary, thyme and lavender should be sheared to correct their shape. This pruning will encourage bushiness later this spring. Feed when new growth begins to appear with the EB Stone All Purpose Fertilizer or Maxsea All Purpose. Soft herbs such as Oregano, savory, lemon balm and marjoram should be cut back to the basal growth to get rid of the old foliage and stems. Feed as you would the woody herbs.
Woody herbs such as rosemary, thyme and lavender should be sheared to correct their shape. This pruning will encourage bushiness later this spring. Feed when new growth begins to appear with the EB Stone All Purpose Fertilizer or Maxsea All Purpose. Soft herbs such as Oregano, savory, lemon balm and marjoram should be cut back to the basal growth to get rid of the old foliage and stems. Feed as you would the woody herbs.
February Edition of The Kitchen Gardener
Check out our February Kitchen Gardener
http://www.sloatgardens.com/kitchen-gardener/2010/february10.htm
Monday, February 15, 2010
Blithedale Demo Garden Update
Our Mill Valley (Blithedale Ave.) store just finished planting strawberries in their demo garden. More planting to come. Are you taking advantage of this beautiful weather and taking some time to garden? We are!
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Valentine's Day Gift Ideas
Valentine's Day flowers look lovely for the first few days after you buy them, but their beauty is always short lived. Instead, give your sweetheart orchids, a rose bush or spring flowering bulbs. They're the Valentine's Day gift that keeps on giving all year long!
For more Valentine's Day gift ideas, click here.
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
Notes on winter pruning.....
Major pruning is done in early winter/late spring for some plants. Citrus should be pruned when the weather warms up. Basic pruning advice can be found in the Sunset pp.722-724. For more detailed advice the Guide to Pruning by Cass Turnbull describes how to prune the different types of shrubs and vines. Everyone should own this book.
Some corrective work might be needed with the onset of the winter storms. If there is breakage the correct cut can lessen damage to rest of the tree/shrub and help the plant to heal correctly (see p.704 SWG). We recommend gardeners prune on a dry day for the safest conditions.
“The Right Tool for the Right Job” is a cosmic truth. Trying to cut a branch that is too big for the tool Can damage the tool, the branch and the pruner. Today’s tools are well-engineered to relieve stress and strain on wrists and forearms.
The packaging on the pruners and loppers will say what size branch can be cut with the tool. The Felco 2/9’s will cut branches up to 1” in diameter, the Felco 6 will cut up to ¾”. We also carry the replacement blades and springs.
Loppers can cut larger branches up to 1 ¼”, they are great for taking out those gnarly old rose canes. If the branch is larger than that it is time to use a folding saw or in tight situations a keyhole saw.
We also carry Felco Lubricating Spray, holsters and gloves.
We hope you are able to attend some of the many pruning seminars we have scheduled !
Some corrective work might be needed with the onset of the winter storms. If there is breakage the correct cut can lessen damage to rest of the tree/shrub and help the plant to heal correctly (see p.704 SWG). We recommend gardeners prune on a dry day for the safest conditions.
“The Right Tool for the Right Job” is a cosmic truth. Trying to cut a branch that is too big for the tool Can damage the tool, the branch and the pruner. Today’s tools are well-engineered to relieve stress and strain on wrists and forearms.
The packaging on the pruners and loppers will say what size branch can be cut with the tool. The Felco 2/9’s will cut branches up to 1” in diameter, the Felco 6 will cut up to ¾”. We also carry the replacement blades and springs.
Loppers can cut larger branches up to 1 ¼”, they are great for taking out those gnarly old rose canes. If the branch is larger than that it is time to use a folding saw or in tight situations a keyhole saw.
We also carry Felco Lubricating Spray, holsters and gloves.
We hope you are able to attend some of the many pruning seminars we have scheduled !
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Monday, February 1, 2010
Interesting article on Vertical Gardening
Patrick Blanc Plants a Vertical Garden in Tacoma
Valerie Easton
January 9, 2010
VERTICAL GARDENS are literally climbing in popularity, and Tacoma is out front with a green wall designed by the man who invented them. French botanist and artist Patrick Blanc's 800-square-foot vertical garden for the Goodwill-Milgard Work Opportunity Center was unveiled in September. It graces the entrance of an imposing new building designed by BCRA Architects, and is sufficiently large and fluffy to be clearly visible from busy Tacoma Avenue.
Read the full article here:
http://www.insideurbangreen.org/2010/01/pacific-nw-tacoma-goodwills-garden-wall-is-a-new-city-icon-seattle-times-newspaper.html
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