Thursday, December 31, 2009

Happy New Year!

We wish you & your family health, happiness and good gardening in 2010!



Rejuvenate – Plant and breathe deeply

Relish – In growing your own delicious food

Responsibility – Plant a native shrub

Refuge – Plant herbs such as rosemary, thyme, oregano
and lavender to feed native bees

Relax – Plant annual flowers for beauty and happiness

Release ladybugs

Reliability – Use the right tools that make the job easier

Remembrance – Plant a perennial to honor
a friend, family member or pet

Refine – Create a mixed container planting for a doorway or patio

Rejoice in your garden

Monday, December 28, 2009

Bringing Birds to the Garden Adds Another Level of Satisfaction



Is something missing from your garden? Is it a little too quiet out there? How about drawing birds to your garden? They are a source of endless entertainment, dashing, fluttering, feeding, jumping, bathing, and eventually flying off. Make it a joyful place to spend your leisure time. Birds have a way of making the garden come alive. These foraging creatures are independent spirits, wild at heart, but if you provide what they need — food, water, shelter, and nesting spaces — they will return to your urban garden again and again.

Bird feeders provide instant gratification to bird and human alike but require regular cleaning and refilling. A complementary and sustainable approach is to plant shrubs with berries that our feathered friends find irresistible.

Plant Instant Bird Food

Toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia). An evergreen shrub to eight feet that produces brilliant red berries in November and December. Flocks of cedar waxwings and other birds gorge on the berries until they disappear. Attractive in flower as well as fruit, this native, noninvasive alternative to firethorn or cotoneaster is a must for bird-friendly gardens.

Blue elderberry (Sambucus mexicana). I call this plant an avian cafeteria for the sheer variety and quantity of songbirds that visit it in July and August to snack on the pale-blue berries. (Yes, the berries are edible by humans, too.) By nature a large shrub, this fast-growing deciduous plant can be easily pruned and shaped as a multi-trunked tree to 20 feet.

Coffeeberry (Rhamnus californica). This handsome shrub looks good year round, with dark green foliage and stems that mature from mahogany to brown. Tiny flowers attract hummingbirds and native bees in spring. Berries go from green to red to chocolate in fall, and are consumed eagerly by birds.

Holly-leaved cherry (Prunus ilicifolia). You can train this lush green shrub as a hedge or allow it to grow to a 20-foot tree. Flowers attract insects (therefore birds) in spring; fruit attracts birds in late summer and fall. Slow growing and drought tolerant.

Oregon grape (Berberis aquifolium). The state shrub of our neighboring state thrives in partial shade. Shiny green leaves and yellow flower clusters adorn it in spring. By fall, the flowers have turned into purple berries that the birds love. Cold weather brings red color to the leaves.

In addition to food, birds need a steady source of water, especially during the dry summer months. Include a water feature in the garden: a simple fountain or a more elaborate stream or pond, or something as basic as a bird bath that is refilled by hand every few days. If you provide it, they will find it.

Shelter is a critical component of bird habitat. Densely branching shrubs thwart larger predators and provide safe haven to small birds. Shrubs that provide food as well as shelter do double duty, and are preferred choices.

Each species has its own unique nesting requirements, and it is best to include trees and shrubs of varying sizes in the garden to provide a range of options for nesting sites.


Sloat Garden Center carries these plants, as well as a wide range of bird seed. Stop in!

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Happy Holidays from Sloat Garden Center!


We wish you a safe & happy holiday....and good gardening next year!!

Thank you for all your support throughout 2009...for supporting our locally owned business, subscribing to our enewsletters, reading our gardening articles, and attending our seminars & events.


We look forward to seeing you in 2010!


Monday, December 21, 2009

Gifts for gardeners

Marin Master Gardener: Gifts for growers
Jane Scurich
Marin IJ


This is the season all gardeners look forward to - stockings overflowing with new tools, bulbs, seeds, gloves, gift certificates, watering cans, creative design ideas, books about everything horticultural - you get the picture.

We gardeners are a pretty easy-to-please group as long as your gift is thoughtful of our earth.

Victory gardens abounded this past year; in fact, some seed distributors completely sold out of many products as everyone seemed to jump on the gardening bandwagon. So help your gardening friend get a fresh batch of seeds for the upcoming planting season.

Sloat Garden Center, based in Marin, offers a wonderful bird feeder to attract finches to your garden. The Finch Sock Feeder is an ingenious, refillable sock that deters squirrels and larger birds while providing a perfect spot for finches to perch and feed on thistle seed. And it's a true recession buster at $5.99.

Don't overlook the treasured gift of your time to assist your gardening friends - we can all use a helping hand at times. A gift of a few hours of raking, weeding and mulching can bring a smile to many faces. Best wishes for a happy holiday growing season.

Read the full article here!
http://www.marinij.com/lifestyles/ci_14030487

Saturday, December 19, 2009

‘Shooting Stars’ Are Spectacular Winter Color for the Garden


‘Shooting Stars’ Are Spectacular Winter Color for the Garden
Cyclamen are commonly called ‘shooting stars’ but did you know Cyclamen have been cultivated since the 1500’s? Long before they were ever valued for their showy blooms they were used for medicinal purposes. The name “cyclamen” is a Greek word meaning “circle”. Some people say the name came from the circular form of the corm and others say it’s from the spiral coil the stem makes after blooming.

Whatever the meaning, Cyclamen are a sturdy and colorful addition to fall and winter plantings. The vibrant colors stand out against an otherwise bleak wintry background. Plant this month for holiday color.

The variety we carry is Cyclamen persicum -- it is known for its beautiful shape and many flowers. It blooms fall into spring in most areas of California. It is a great choice for shady garden spots. They also do well indoors with bright light. Keep in a cool spot and away from furnace vents.

Cyclamen are available in white, pink, rose, red and some bi-colors. The best way to keep them happy is to keep the plant slightly moist. Fertilize monthly with 0-10-10. Be sure to keep dead flower heads cleaned off. Cyclamen will bloom into spring.

Friday, December 18, 2009

Planting trees & shrubs

Planting trees or shrubs anytime soon?

Try adding beneficial mycorrhizal fungi to your planting hole with Sure Start and other EB Stone products. Mycorrhizal fungi are the good guys of the fungal world.

According to an article in the July/August 1998 issue of The American Gardener, these microorganisms colonize the fine roots of plants, extending threadlike feeding structures into the soil. These root-like feeders act as extensions of the plant's own roots, helping the plant get water and food. In exchange, the fungi get sugars manufactured by the plant. There is evidence that mycorrhizae help plants survive stresses from drought and high soil temperatures, and even protect them from certain soil diseases. These fungi exist in great numbers in natural environments, but have often been stripped away in the course of modern construction, and gardening practices such as use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. Sure Start contains beneficial mycorrhizal fungi as well as beneficial bacteria and organic stimulants that improve perennials, herbs and garden vegetables. It is added to the planting hole at planting time. And you can even add some later for use as a top dressing in established beds.

After the first killing frost, cut back blackened leaves and stems of perennials, pull annuals and neaten the garden for the winter. Rake and discard leaves from any trees, shrubs or flowers which suffered serious fungal outbreaks this year (such as black spot, leaf spot or powdery mildew). Do not put them in the compost pile. Cleaning up the leaves and getting rid of them will help prevent outbreaks next year, since spores can overwinter and reinfect new foliage when it emerges next spring.

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

2010 Growing Up Green fundraiser dates



2010 Growing Up Green fundraiser dates

January 15 – January 25
February 19 – March 1
September 17 – 27
November 5 – 15
December 6 – 13



Monday, December 14, 2009

PlantSF turns pavement into a garden spot




PlantSF turns pavement into a garden spot
Joe Eaton,Ron Sullivan
Sunday, December 13, 2009



If you've converted a piece of your San Francisco sidewalk into a garden strip lately - or admired someone's plantings as you walked by - you can thank Jane Martin for making the process easier and cheaper. An architect and landscape designer who runs Shift Design, she's the godmother of the city's new Sidewalk Landscaping Permit.

Read the full article here:

Thursday, December 10, 2009

This just in: white poinsettia, wreaths and swags for holiday decorating!



Christmas has arrived !! Pick up your fresh cut Christmas tree, fragrant garland, colorful poinsettias and more!
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Monday, December 7, 2009

Brrr....it's cold out there! Help your plants prepare for frost with our guide to Frost Protection & Recovery

Bay Area gardeners “stretch the zone” in order to enjoy beautiful but frost tender plants such as Bougainvillea, citrus, bananas, passion vine and Brugmansia. Every few years Mother Nature jolts us with several icy nights of 20 to 30 degree temperatures. It is not unusual for us to even have a couple nights in the teens. Tender growing tips freeze, whole plants turn brown, gray, or turn to a mushy green. A few plants may die. Some will recover quickly and completely. Some will recover slowly and may not bloom for a couple years.

Frost damages plants in two ways: by internal ice crystal formation (wet damage) and by desiccation (dry damage). With internal ice crystals, water in leaves and stems expands as it freezes, breaking delicate cell walls. Plants with fleshy leaves like Agapanthus, Myoporum, Fuchsia, garden Geraniums and jade plants are at risk. With desiccation, frozen roots and stems can’t supply branch tips with needed water. When the frozen plant is exposed to wind, tips dry out, wilt and die back.

Frost Protection

Protecting plants from frost can be quite easy. Twenty minutes work on an evening when frost is expected will save many plants. The secret is having the materials you will need on hand and ready: burlap, micropore plastic (row cover sheet or weedblock), insulating blanket, shredded or bark mulch, and Cloud Cover antitranspirant.

Make sure plants are well watered. The air temperature above moist soil is about 5 degrees warmer than over a dry soil. Spray your plants liberally with Cloud Cover. It slows the rate at which plants lose water to the surrounding air preventing drying and wilting. Move container plants under an eave or put in them in the garage. If you choose not to move them, protect them like the in ground plants as follows. Cover the sensitive plants with a porous, lightweight covering. Freezing air flows over the cover and the unfrozen soil beneath buffers the cold. Beneath the covering, air temperatures may be 8 degrees warmer the first night of frost and 5 degrees warmer on succeeding nights. You can safely leave the covers on for one or two cool days. Remove the covers if the days warm up and recover at night should the threat of frost continue. Non porous vinyl or plastic sheeting must be supported so it doesn’t touch the foliage: they have a tendency to supercool. If you have already applied a mulch around your plants, it is simple to heap the mulch closer to the main stem of the plant for added insulation. (Be sure to remove the added mulch from around the crown after the frost is over.)

Frost Recovery

Don’t despair if frost has scathed your garden. Though those sad, dead leaves and stems look unattractive, don’t remove them or prune your plant until freezing weather is definitely over. The dead portions offer protection to the still living portions. Premature pruning exposes healthy tissue or encourages the plant to push tender buds just in time for another frost!

When the last frost date arrives (February 10th in San Francisco, March 15th in Marin and March 20th in Contra Costa), examine all damaged plants. Use sharp pruners to cut brown, blackened or soggy stems back to healthy tissue. Do not immediately fertilize frost stressed plants; allow them to bounce back on their own. Some plants and trees will recover valiantly and soon put forth new growth and blooms as robustly as before. Others are better discarded to ensure good looks and vigor. If a plant is still struggling in late April or May, it’s probably wiser to replace it with a hardier variety or different plant. Sloat Garden Center staff can suggest a range of beautiful, hardy plants better suited to the needs of your garden. Should you choose to replant the shrub you lost, plant it in another, more sheltered location.

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Need a gift for your favorite gardener? We have some ideas!



Holiday Gift Cards with a bonus gift!

Our special gift card collection presents your favorite gardener with the gift of gardening. It’s a perfect housewarming or secret Santa gift.... or even a fun stocking stuffer! Stop in to Sloat Garden Center today!

$25 gift bag
• $25 gift card
• Organza gift bag
• Pruner holster
• Flower or vegetable seed packet
• Maxsea fertilizer sample
• Gift tag

$50 gift box
• Two $25 gift cards
• Gift box
• Two flower or vegetable seed packets
• Maxsea fertilizer sample
• Gift tag

Thursday, December 3, 2009

New arrivals for holiday decorating!




From above: poinsettia and amaryllis, Fresh cut trees arrive, our 3rd Avenue store assistant manager Erik Borman dispays new wreaths and...fragrant rosemary cones!
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Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Dormant Spraying season is here!

Dormant Spraying season is here. For new gardeners, this refers to spraying deciduous fruit trees and shrubs (roses). The first spraying usually takes place when the temperatures drop and the trees and shrubs have dropped their leaves (end of October/beginning of November). The second application will be at the end of December/beginning of January. The final spraying should be just before the buds break (show green tissue) in early spring, before the beneficial pollinators become active.

We carry a choice of products. The oil spray (Bonide All Season Oil Spray) smothers any over-wintering insects and their eggs, the sulfur and copper sprays help control fungus such as black spot and rust on roses, bacterial/fungal leaf spot on rhodies, and botrytis and petal blight on camellias. Bonide Copper Fungicide Spray is the most effective against Peach Leaf Curl. Peach Leaf Curl can only be controlled by dormant spraying, unfortunately, it cannot be controlled once the tree has leafed out.

The oil spray we carry, Bonide All Seasons Oil, cannot be mixed with sulfur or copper sprays. For plants that need a sulfur spray (Poly-Sul) or copper spray (Bonide Copper Fungicide Spray), you can spray with the oil first, wait two weeks and then apply the sulfur or copper spray. The Lilly Miller Poly-Sul cannot be sprayed on fuzzy fruits (apricots, peaches, nectarines) in the growing season.

Most gardeners prefer using a tank sprayer. The tank sprayer provides better control and direction of spray. Only enough product to cover the plant should be mixed. The Gilmour Hose-End #499 sprayer is a good choice for a broad spray over many plants in the same area and also because any leftover concentrate can be returned to the original container. Both sprayers should be triple-rinsed and left to air-dry after use.

Water your plants the day before and limit spraying to only those plants that became infested/diseased. The ideal conditions are a clear day, with little or no breeze, and the temperature should be between 40 and 70 degrees. The temperature should remain above 50degrees for at least 24 hours afterwards to ensure complete coverage of all cracks and crevices. Do not spray if very warm or freezing temperatures are expected soon. If annuals are nearby, they should be covered.