6 days left until Halloween!
Monday, October 26, 2009
Friday, October 23, 2009
Our Fall Garden Prep CHECKLIST
Fall Garden Prep CHECKLIST
· Clean up dead leaves, deadhead flowering plants- diseased leaves should go in the garbage, the rest can go in the compost pile
· Mulch with compost or Forest Mulch to amend the soil and keep down weeds
· Pull weeds before they have a chance to drop seeds
· Divide perennials
· Move perennials and shrubs between now and January-prune back lightly first
· Continue to bait for snails with Sluggo
· Strip roses Dec-Jan, prune in Jan-Feb
· Fertilize cymbidiums with 6-25-25 food
· Fertilize azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons with 0-10-10 food
· Fertilize blue hydrangeas with aluminum sulfate now for bluer blooms
· Fertilize winter color with all purpose plant food (primrose, cyclamen)
· Continue to fertilize citrus with citrus food
· Reseed lawns, fertilize lawns/use pre-emergent
· De-thatch lawns if necessary
· Hard pruning happens in January/February/March, it depends on the weather
· Clean and store tools- rub down with alcohol after each use, use white lithium grease to grease them, store shovels and saws in a bucket of sand with a little oil (5 parts sand-1 part oil)
· Select bulbs now- refrigerate tulips, crocus and hyacinth for 6-8 weeks, plant anytime from late October to December 31
· Turn the irrigation back on if the rain stops and the temperatures drop in January (or any winter month)
· Clean up dead leaves, deadhead flowering plants- diseased leaves should go in the garbage, the rest can go in the compost pile
· Mulch with compost or Forest Mulch to amend the soil and keep down weeds
· Pull weeds before they have a chance to drop seeds
· Divide perennials
· Move perennials and shrubs between now and January-prune back lightly first
· Continue to bait for snails with Sluggo
· Strip roses Dec-Jan, prune in Jan-Feb
· Fertilize cymbidiums with 6-25-25 food
· Fertilize azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons with 0-10-10 food
· Fertilize blue hydrangeas with aluminum sulfate now for bluer blooms
· Fertilize winter color with all purpose plant food (primrose, cyclamen)
· Continue to fertilize citrus with citrus food
· Reseed lawns, fertilize lawns/use pre-emergent
· De-thatch lawns if necessary
· Hard pruning happens in January/February/March, it depends on the weather
· Clean and store tools- rub down with alcohol after each use, use white lithium grease to grease them, store shovels and saws in a bucket of sand with a little oil (5 parts sand-1 part oil)
· Select bulbs now- refrigerate tulips, crocus and hyacinth for 6-8 weeks, plant anytime from late October to December 31
· Turn the irrigation back on if the rain stops and the temperatures drop in January (or any winter month)
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Caterpillars---Arrrgh!
Caterpillars---Arrrgh!
by Lora, our Staff Training Manager
Caterpillars usually show up in the warmer part of the growing season, but we're still finding them in October.
Use Harvest Guard Row Cover to protect baby veggies from caterpillar damage. This light-weight cover lets in the sun but prevents the Cabbage Looper moths from laying their eggs on cabbages, broccoli, etc.
You can apply Caterpillar Spray (Bt) to take care of all those budworms on geraniums, petunias, nicotiana, snapdragons or any cutworm that have crawled up into the foliage.
I’m finding cutworms (who do similar damage) in my arctotis now and I have a feeling that’s why the lovely tall purple verbascum plant shriveled up at the base. You can also apply Sluggo Plus (with Spinosad) to take care of the cutworms in the soil, chewing on heuchera roots or mowing down baby veggies at night. Beneficial nematodes will also attack and destroy cutworms in the soil.
Cutworms generally feed at night by clipping off seedling stems and young plants near or just below the soil surface.
Cutworms are a dull brown or gray and will curl up into a “C” shape when disturbed or at rest.
They will pass the winter in the soil or under garden debris as young larvae. Gardens covered in grass (sod) or weeds the previous season are especially attractive to cutworms.
by Lora, our Staff Training Manager
Caterpillars usually show up in the warmer part of the growing season, but we're still finding them in October.
Use Harvest Guard Row Cover to protect baby veggies from caterpillar damage. This light-weight cover lets in the sun but prevents the Cabbage Looper moths from laying their eggs on cabbages, broccoli, etc.
You can apply Caterpillar Spray (Bt) to take care of all those budworms on geraniums, petunias, nicotiana, snapdragons or any cutworm that have crawled up into the foliage.
I’m finding cutworms (who do similar damage) in my arctotis now and I have a feeling that’s why the lovely tall purple verbascum plant shriveled up at the base. You can also apply Sluggo Plus (with Spinosad) to take care of the cutworms in the soil, chewing on heuchera roots or mowing down baby veggies at night. Beneficial nematodes will also attack and destroy cutworms in the soil.
Cutworms generally feed at night by clipping off seedling stems and young plants near or just below the soil surface.
Cutworms are a dull brown or gray and will curl up into a “C” shape when disturbed or at rest.
They will pass the winter in the soil or under garden debris as young larvae. Gardens covered in grass (sod) or weeds the previous season are especially attractive to cutworms.
Oxalis beware!
Within 3-14 days of rain, the dreaded dormant oxalis weed sprouts. ugh!
Nipping it in the bud early with Weed Prevention Plus (before it sprouts) or Bonide Weedbeater (after sprouting) will help prevent an overwhelming infestation.
The important thing to know if you use weed killer is this: spray it on the leaves and wait until they turn brown before pulling them. Many gardeners make the mistake of chopping the weeds first.
In general, if oxalis starts growing in your garden, pull it before it begins to flower to help prevent it from spreading!
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
It's truly autumn now!
It’s truly autumn and we've had the rain to prove it! Now is the time for sowing wildflowers such as California poppies and Clarkia. Other seeds to plant are Sweet Peas, Larkspur, annual Iberis, forget me nots and Virginia stock.
A beer recipe for lawns...
Lawn renovation, other than total removal, is best done now. This means thatching and aeration. A good recipe to help get rid of heavy thatch build-up is to mix beer and water 50/50 and spray on the lawn. The yeast in the beer helps decompose the dead thatch making it easier to rake away. Top dress the lawn after aerating with ½” of Sloat Forest Mulch Plus. Feed lawns at this time of year with Ringer Lawn Restore or Greenall Fall & Winter Feed.
Speaking of feeding, we have long suggested feeding spring flowering shrubs with Ultra Bloom (0-10-10) to promote resistance to cold and stimulate good bud set on Rhododendron, Camellia and Azaleas. Another product we carry can also be applied now. It is the Excel LG Systemic Fungicide. This is an organic product that is a biostimulant, preventative, curative and provides Potassium and Phosphorous to boot.
Friday, October 16, 2009
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Pumpkin Soup recipe
The pumpkin picture for today will hopefully inspire you to make soup (it's raining here again). We love Ruth Reichl's Pumpkin Soup recipe. Or as she says, "This isn't a soup, actually, it's more like a gratin baked right in...side the pumpkin." Read more.... http://www.ruthreichl.com/?ID=3&page=17#recipe
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
17 days left!
Today's pumpkin picture is slightly more scary than in past days. 17 days left until Halloween! Do you have your pumpkin yet?
Monday, October 12, 2009
Friday, October 9, 2009
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Mama Elaine's Zucchini Bread Recipe
Mama Elaine's Zucchini Bread Recipe
If you’re wondering what to do with the truckload of zucchini that grew like Topsy or Jack’s bean stalk while you were on vacation, here’s a suggestion – Zucchini Bread. It’s perfect for an office snack, great sliced in the kids’ lunches (they get another serving of vegetables without a fuss!), and it’s a tasty toasted bread for the morning with a dollop of cream cheese spread on top.
And oh yes, the neighbors might actually like a loaf or two for the freezer!
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
3 teaspoons ground cinnamon
3 eggs
1 cup vegetable oil or applesauce
2 1/4 cups white sugar
3 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 cups grated zucchini
1 cup chopped walnuts
Other optional ingredients to add to the above basic recipe:
Add 1 1/4 cups semi-sweet chocolate chips
Pecans instead of walnuts
1 cup dried cranberries, cranraisins
1 cup dried apricots
1 cup raisins
1 cup chopped prunes
1 cup dried blueberries
Directions
Grease and flour two 8 x 4 inch pans.
Preheat oven to 325 degrees F (165 degrees C).
Sift flour, salt, baking powder, soda, and cinnamon together in a bowl.
Beat eggs, oil or applesauce, vanilla, and sugar together in a large bowl.
Add sifted ingredients to the creamed mixture, and beat well.
Stir in zucchini and nuts – and any of the other options until well combined.
Pour batter into prepared pans.
Bake for 40 to 60 minutes, or until tester inserted in the center comes out clean.
Cool in pan on rack for 20 minutes.
Remove bread from pan, and completely cool.
Enjoy!
We'll say it again....Plant Sweet Peas this Fall for a Glorious Fragrant Bouquet next Spring!
August and September are sweet pea planting months for us here in the mild-winter west. A great selection of sweet pea seeds are available to choose from including the earliest bloomers and the very popular Old Fashioned varieties. Old Fashioned sweet peas are particularly fragrant.
Sweet peas are cool weather annuals. Sweet peas germinate when the ground temperature is a uniform 55-65 degrees. Once germinated, the plants thrive at temperatures from 70 to 80 degrees. Above 85 degrees, they really struggle. They hate hot, dry winds. If you live in an area where the transition from cold winter temps to hot summer temps happens quickly, you should consider starting your seeds indoors and transplanting. Start your plants six to eight weeks before you plan to transplant them.
Sweet peas planted now, in a manure-rich soil, will sprout and establish themselves well before winter cool temperatures arrive. The earliest ones can actually bloom as soon as January as they require just 10 hours of sunlight per day to set buds. The later varieties will be nice large plants by the time early spring arrives and will set a profusion of blooms. Sweet peas are beautiful and fragrant and they make great cut flowers.
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Pictures from an herb-planting fundraiser
Pictures above are from an herb-planting fundraiser for the Visitacion Valley Neighborhood Block Party Library in late September. All funds raised went to support the new Visitacion Valley Library. Sloat donated the pots, soil and seeds -- the kids had a great time painting and planting!!
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
October-November Tasks.....owl boxes!
Owls are such an important part of the natural cycle of rodent control we
encourage you to visit the website at www.hungryowl.org. Learn how to
install your own owl box and support the native owls.
If you already have an owl box it is very important to clean your Barn Owl
box now during the non-breeding season to prepare for the 2010 nesting
season. If you need help or would the 'pros' to do it that info is also on
the website.
The Hungry Owl Project is Hosting "An Evening with Owls" at the Marin Art &
Garden Center Nov.20, 2009 at 6 pm.
encourage you to visit the website at www.hungryowl.org. Learn how to
install your own owl box and support the native owls.
If you already have an owl box it is very important to clean your Barn Owl
box now during the non-breeding season to prepare for the 2010 nesting
season. If you need help or would the 'pros' to do it that info is also on
the website.
The Hungry Owl Project is Hosting "An Evening with Owls" at the Marin Art &
Garden Center Nov.20, 2009 at 6 pm.
Monday, October 5, 2009
We love school gardens!
Check out the new raised beds at the South of Market Child Care Center (685 Natoma St, San Francisco 94103). We gave them recommendations about setting up class gardens in their raised bed, and using containers.
Young Plants:
Lolla Rossa Lettuce
Little Gem Lettuce
Romaine Lettuce
Deer-Tongue Lettuce
Copenhagen Cabbage
Rhubarb Swiss Chard
Rainbow Kale
Red Bell Pepper
Chinese Giant Pepper
Sun Gold Tomato
Seeds:
Bloomsdale Spinach
Cherry Belle Radish
Danvers Carrot
Oregon Sugar Pea
Stringless Bean
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Harvest Tips for Cool Season Crops
Harvest Tips for Cool Season Crops
by Botanical Interests seeds
It is officially autumn and the warm weather of summer has been replaced by cool autumn breezes in many parts of the country. Below you will find tips for harvesting cool season crops listed in alphabetical order.
Artichoke - Typical yields are 2 to 3 artichokes per plant. For eating, harvest buds when they are still closed, just before they begin to open. (Opened heads are tough.) Cut the central bud first by cutting the stem with a sharp knife 2" below the bud. After harvesting, side shoots will produce smaller harvestable buds (a unique delicacy!) if you cut the main stems to about 1 foot above the ground. Artichokes are best eaten fresh immediately after harvest as flavor declines the moment they are cut.
Arugula - Harvest leaves when no longer than 6", but at least 2" long. Pick leaves individually or cut off at ground level. Pick before plant begins to flower. If plant is allowed to flower, the foliage turns bitter, but the flowers are still edible and make a pretty garnish for salads and other dishes.
Beets - For early spring plantings, harvest before summer heat. For late summer plantings, harvest before the first heavy frost in fall. For winter plantings in frost-free climates, harvest by March. Harvest when roots are 2"-5" in diameter. Do not let them get too big; the smaller they are, the more tender they are. Foliage can be harvested when 6" tall or shorter. Leave 2" of foliage above ground level to allow re-growth.
Bok Choy White Stem - Harvest heads after 8 weeks or when the yellow flowers emerge from the center. You can also harvest outer leaves much before that (leave enough leaves to keep the plant growing). Bok Choy can also be harvested when it is quite young - baby Bok Choy is a gourmet delight when cooked whole or halved. The center stalks are called the hearts and are considered a delicacy.
Bok Choy Tatsoi - Tatsoi can be harvested at almost any stage. Generally, smaller leaves are harvested (cut at the base of the stem) for use in salad mixes, and the larger leaves and stems are harvested (cut at base of stem near the soil surface) for use in stir-fries. Young seedlings can also be used in salads. Flowering shoots can be used in stir-fry dishes. Since the plant hugs the ground, make sure to wash harvested plant parts carefully; it is easy for chunks of dirt to splash up into the plant.
Broccoli - Cut main head when 3"-6" across, buds are still tightly closed and don't show any yellow color. Cut the head with a couple inches of stem with a sharp knife. Smaller heads on the side shoots will develop an additional harvest. Don't forget, the whole broccoli plant is edible and nutritious. You can also eat the leaves and stems.
Broccoli Raab - Cut the budding shoots just before the flowers open. Additional, smaller stems will appear shortly; continue to harvest until shoots are too small and tough.
Brussels Sprouts - Brussels sprouts mature from the bottom of the plant to the top. Buds should be picked when they are firm and about the size of a large cherry, between ¾" and 1" in size. Break off the leaf just below and snap or cut off the sprout. The sprouts can be harvested all at once or in several pickings. After harvesting the lower sprouts, new smaller sprouts may emerge. To hasten harvest, cut off the top shoot when the lower sprouts are near harvestable size. But, do not do this if you want to leave the plant standing through frost or snow as the upper leaves provide protection. They can be left in the garden through a few frosts which actually improves the flavor, but be sure to harvest before the sprouts get too large and open or crack and before the foliage begins to turn yellow. To prolong harvest, mulch with straw or use row covers. Mature plants can tolerate hard frost, surviving temperatures down to 10 degrees F. The harvested sprouts will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week or the entire plant may be stored in a root cellar for longer. The leaves of Brussels sprouts are also edible and can be steamed like spinach or added to soups.
Cabbage, Chinese - Young seedlings may be harvested as you are thinning the crop. Harvest mature heads, beginning after they are 3"-4" tall, after they firm up, and are solid but not too hard. If you cut just above the soil surface, young, tender, edible leaves may then sprout from the stump. Spring crops should be harvested before seed stalks form. Fall crops should be harvested before a hard frost.
Cabbage, Common - Harvest heads as soon as they are well developed. They should feel firm and solid when squeezed. Cut off heads at the base with a sharp knife. Discard the outermost leaves. Cabbages left in the ground beyond maturity are more subject to disease and splitting. To delay harvest and prevent the heads from splitting while still in the ground, give the heads a sharp ¼ turn. This will break the feeder root, but allow smaller roots to continue to nourish the plant until harvested.
Carrots - Carrots can be harvested at almost any point in their development, but they are sweeter when mature. Check size of carrots by pushing soil away from the crown. Do not allow carrots to get larger than normal size (see vegetable description inside packet). Peak harvest period is the 3 to 4 weeks around the maturity date. Late summer planted carrots are very sweet if harvested after the first couple of light frosts. In climates where temperatures don't fall below 20 degrees F, carrots can be left in the ground for storage and harvested as needed if the plants are protected by a thick layer of mulch or a blanket. Be sure to harvest before the ground freezes. Carrots left in the ground too long will become tough and may crack. Do not pull carrots up by the leaves. Use a trowel or pitchfork to dig out of the soil. Carrot foliage is also edible and very nutritious, and can be used much like parsley in salads and other dishes.
Cauliflower - Harvest heads when buds are tight and firm. Cut the main stalk just below the head. Then, if you allow the plant to continue to grow, side shoots may occur for a second crop. The stems and leaves are also edible.
Celery - Individual outside celery stalks can be harvested at any time, allowing the inner stalks to continue to grow. Or, you can harvest the entire plant when stalks are at least 6" tall. Cut with a sharp knife at or just below soil level. Harvest should occur before the first hard frost. Celery leaves and seeds are also edible.
Endive/Escarole - Harvest when plants are 12" to 15" across. The entire head can be cut off at the base. In spring, harvest before temperatures get above 90 degrees F. Some people peel away the outer leaves, as they tend to be tougher and more bitter than inner leaves. "Greens" can actually be harvested anytime in a "cut-and-come again" fashion for the tasty, tender greens. This is particularly good when seeds are planted too late in spring and warm weather is approaching too quickly, threatening to cause plants to bolt. In fall, harvest after the first couple of light frosts; flavor is actually improved with light frost.
Kale, Chinese - Whole plants should be harvested just before the flower buds open. (In ideal conditions, the plant will be 8"-10" tall and stalks will be ¾" thick.) Or, you can pick the center bud stalks first, allowing the side branches to continue to produce flower buds for a second crop.
Kale - Young leaves can be harvested at any time and make wonderful salad greens. Pick the outer leaves periodically as the plant continues to grow. A light fall frost (28-33 degrees F) makes the leaves taste even sweeter. Continue harvesting up until the first hard frost. In mild climates, mulch plants well to continue harvesting through winter.
Kohlrabi - Harvest when round portions are 2"-3" wide. Kohlrabi gets tough and woody as plants grow larger. Kohlrabi leaves are also edible.
Leek - Leeks can be harvested at any stage, but for full-sized leeks, harvest when they are 1" in diameter. Use a garden fork to loosen the soil and then pull them up. Leeks tend to hold a lot of dirt, so rinse thoroughly. Leeks tolerate temperatures as low as 25 degrees F and can be harvested after a few light frosts. Mulch around leek plants with compost, leaves, or straw to extend the harvest into late fall (or through the winter in warm climates).
Lettuce, Butterhead - You can pick individual outer leaves before the head forms. Once the head forms, harvest the entire plant as soon as possible by cutting off the entire plant at ground level. A favorite use is to twist out the small interior head to make a lettuce "bowl" with the remaining leaf base and fill it with your favorite cold salad.
Lettuce, Crisphead - Head lettuce should be harvested in the early morning. Heads can be harvested when 4" wide and should be harvested no more than two weeks after reaching mature size of 6".
Lettuce, Leaf - Pick individual leaves anytime or shear the entire plant to 2" above the ground when plant is up to 10" in diameter. The earlier the harvest, the more tender the crop.
Lettuce, Mesclun - Mescluns can be harvested when very young for tender "baby greens" when they are 2"-3" tall. Or, they can be grown to a more mature size for heartier salad material by shearing plants to 1" above ground when plants are 4"-6" tall.
Lettuce, Romaine - Pick individual outer leaves as plant grows or shear entire plant to 2" above ground when plant is 8"-12" tall.
Mache - Harvesting can begin as tasty young seedlings. Simply cut off at ground level. Individual leaves can be picked when they are 1"-2" long. You can also wait and harvest the entire head at once if you need large quantities of leaves. Some people harvest heads when they are quite small and serve as a gourmet, baby salad.
Micro Greens - Micro greens should be harvested at a minimum when there are at least two true leaves or when the plants are 1"-2" in height. Harvest by cutting the plants just above the soil line. Rinse and use immediately.
Mustard - Harvest individual leaves from the plant as needed. Flavor is milder and texture is best when young. Entire plant may be harvested by cutting 1"-2" above soil line. New leaf growth may occur after this. If plant bolts (sends up a seed stalk), foliage becomes bitter and inedible, but the yellow flowers are an attractive addition to salads.
Onion, Bunching - These onions can be harvested any time during the growing season before they begin to bulb.
Onion, Bulbing - Grow until the tops fall over. When 50% of the tops have fallen over and are lying on the ground, knock the rest over. A week or two later when much of the foliage has dried, use a pitchfork to dig up the onions. Do not remove foliage. Dry the onions in the sun for a couple of days. When ready to use, cut off foliage, 1" above the bulb.
Parsnip - Dig roots with a shovel or garden fork, being careful not to cut or damage the roots. For best flavor, leave parsnips in the ground for at least two weeks after a hard frost in fall. Roots can be left in the ground through winter for continual harvesting if you mulch heavily with straw or compost to prevent the soil from freezing. You can also improve the sweetness by harvesting the roots in the fall and storing them at 32-34 degrees F for two weeks before using.
Peas, Shelling and Snap - Harvest when the pods are plump, about 3 weeks after flowering. Peas that are too mature will cause the plant to stop producing. Therefore, it is important to harvest daily. Use scissors to harvest or hold vine with one hand and pick pod with the other as vines are brittle. Young foliage tips and blossoms are also edible and make a lovely addition to gourmet salads.
Peas, Snow - Harvest when pods are flat, before the seeds start to form. Peas that are too mature will cause the plant to stop producing. Therefore, it is important to harvest daily. Use scissors to harvest or hold vine with one hand and pick pod wit the other as vines are brittle. Young foliage tips and blossoms are also edible and make a lovely addition to gourmet salads.
Radish, Rat Tail - Harvest pods when about the thickness of a pencil and from 3"-12" long. Harvest regularly to encourage plants to produce more pods. Mature pods become hard, tough, and bitter tasting, so they should be picked and discarded. Young radish leaves are also edible and make a spicy addition to salads.
Radish, Spring - Harvest spring radishes at any point up until they have achieved mature size (1" diameter for Cherry Belle and Easter Egg, 3"-4" long for French Breakfast, 3"-4" diameter for "Crimson Giant"). If they are allowed to grow larger or the plant bolts (sends up a seed stalk), they become pithy and hot. Young radish leaves are also edible and make a spicy addition to salads.
Radish, Summer (White Icicle) - Harvest when radish is 5" long or shorter. If they are allowed to grow larger or the plant bolts (sends up a seed stalk), they become pithy and hot. Young radish leaves are also edible and make a spicy addition to salads.
Radish, Winter - Can be harvested at any size. Harvest in late fall or early winter before the ground freezes. Sweet flavor is best when crop matures quickly. Winter radishes will hold longer in the ground than spring or summer radishes, extending the harvest period. (Mature size: Daikon - 2"-4" in diameter, 6"-20" long. Watermelon Mantang Hong - 3.25" in diameter.)
Spinach - Pick individual leaves from the outer edges as they become big enough to use or cut the whole plant 1" above the base and new leaves will grow. Harvest before the plant bolts (sends up a seed stalk).
Swiss Chard - The best quality leaves are 10" or shorter. Pick individual outer leaves as desired or harvest the entire plant by cutting it 2" above the base, and it will grow new leaves. A fairly cold tolerant annual, Swiss Chard can withstand light to moderate frost. In cold climates, mulching soil in early winter can allow harvest all the way up to late December. It can survive the winter in mild climates and will send up a seed stalk in the second year that should be removed. However, Swiss Chard tastes best in the first season, so ideally should be started fresh from seed each season.
Turnips - For the most tender roots, harvest when turnips are no larger than 2" in diameter. Greens should be harvested when young and tender. When harvesting green tops, leave 4" of foliage to continue root production.
Cool Season Vegetable Frost Tolerance
Can withstand light frost (28-33 degrees F): Artichokes, Arugula, Beets, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chinese Cabbage, Endive, Lettuce, Parsnips, Peas, Radicchio,
Swiss Chard
Can withstand hard frost (below 28 degrees F): Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Leeks, Mache, Mustard, Onions, Parsley, Peas, Radishes, Spinach, Turnips
Happy Gardening and Happy Harvesting!
by Botanical Interests seeds
It is officially autumn and the warm weather of summer has been replaced by cool autumn breezes in many parts of the country. Below you will find tips for harvesting cool season crops listed in alphabetical order.
Artichoke - Typical yields are 2 to 3 artichokes per plant. For eating, harvest buds when they are still closed, just before they begin to open. (Opened heads are tough.) Cut the central bud first by cutting the stem with a sharp knife 2" below the bud. After harvesting, side shoots will produce smaller harvestable buds (a unique delicacy!) if you cut the main stems to about 1 foot above the ground. Artichokes are best eaten fresh immediately after harvest as flavor declines the moment they are cut.
Arugula - Harvest leaves when no longer than 6", but at least 2" long. Pick leaves individually or cut off at ground level. Pick before plant begins to flower. If plant is allowed to flower, the foliage turns bitter, but the flowers are still edible and make a pretty garnish for salads and other dishes.
Beets - For early spring plantings, harvest before summer heat. For late summer plantings, harvest before the first heavy frost in fall. For winter plantings in frost-free climates, harvest by March. Harvest when roots are 2"-5" in diameter. Do not let them get too big; the smaller they are, the more tender they are. Foliage can be harvested when 6" tall or shorter. Leave 2" of foliage above ground level to allow re-growth.
Bok Choy White Stem - Harvest heads after 8 weeks or when the yellow flowers emerge from the center. You can also harvest outer leaves much before that (leave enough leaves to keep the plant growing). Bok Choy can also be harvested when it is quite young - baby Bok Choy is a gourmet delight when cooked whole or halved. The center stalks are called the hearts and are considered a delicacy.
Bok Choy Tatsoi - Tatsoi can be harvested at almost any stage. Generally, smaller leaves are harvested (cut at the base of the stem) for use in salad mixes, and the larger leaves and stems are harvested (cut at base of stem near the soil surface) for use in stir-fries. Young seedlings can also be used in salads. Flowering shoots can be used in stir-fry dishes. Since the plant hugs the ground, make sure to wash harvested plant parts carefully; it is easy for chunks of dirt to splash up into the plant.
Broccoli - Cut main head when 3"-6" across, buds are still tightly closed and don't show any yellow color. Cut the head with a couple inches of stem with a sharp knife. Smaller heads on the side shoots will develop an additional harvest. Don't forget, the whole broccoli plant is edible and nutritious. You can also eat the leaves and stems.
Broccoli Raab - Cut the budding shoots just before the flowers open. Additional, smaller stems will appear shortly; continue to harvest until shoots are too small and tough.
Brussels Sprouts - Brussels sprouts mature from the bottom of the plant to the top. Buds should be picked when they are firm and about the size of a large cherry, between ¾" and 1" in size. Break off the leaf just below and snap or cut off the sprout. The sprouts can be harvested all at once or in several pickings. After harvesting the lower sprouts, new smaller sprouts may emerge. To hasten harvest, cut off the top shoot when the lower sprouts are near harvestable size. But, do not do this if you want to leave the plant standing through frost or snow as the upper leaves provide protection. They can be left in the garden through a few frosts which actually improves the flavor, but be sure to harvest before the sprouts get too large and open or crack and before the foliage begins to turn yellow. To prolong harvest, mulch with straw or use row covers. Mature plants can tolerate hard frost, surviving temperatures down to 10 degrees F. The harvested sprouts will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week or the entire plant may be stored in a root cellar for longer. The leaves of Brussels sprouts are also edible and can be steamed like spinach or added to soups.
Cabbage, Chinese - Young seedlings may be harvested as you are thinning the crop. Harvest mature heads, beginning after they are 3"-4" tall, after they firm up, and are solid but not too hard. If you cut just above the soil surface, young, tender, edible leaves may then sprout from the stump. Spring crops should be harvested before seed stalks form. Fall crops should be harvested before a hard frost.
Cabbage, Common - Harvest heads as soon as they are well developed. They should feel firm and solid when squeezed. Cut off heads at the base with a sharp knife. Discard the outermost leaves. Cabbages left in the ground beyond maturity are more subject to disease and splitting. To delay harvest and prevent the heads from splitting while still in the ground, give the heads a sharp ¼ turn. This will break the feeder root, but allow smaller roots to continue to nourish the plant until harvested.
Carrots - Carrots can be harvested at almost any point in their development, but they are sweeter when mature. Check size of carrots by pushing soil away from the crown. Do not allow carrots to get larger than normal size (see vegetable description inside packet). Peak harvest period is the 3 to 4 weeks around the maturity date. Late summer planted carrots are very sweet if harvested after the first couple of light frosts. In climates where temperatures don't fall below 20 degrees F, carrots can be left in the ground for storage and harvested as needed if the plants are protected by a thick layer of mulch or a blanket. Be sure to harvest before the ground freezes. Carrots left in the ground too long will become tough and may crack. Do not pull carrots up by the leaves. Use a trowel or pitchfork to dig out of the soil. Carrot foliage is also edible and very nutritious, and can be used much like parsley in salads and other dishes.
Cauliflower - Harvest heads when buds are tight and firm. Cut the main stalk just below the head. Then, if you allow the plant to continue to grow, side shoots may occur for a second crop. The stems and leaves are also edible.
Celery - Individual outside celery stalks can be harvested at any time, allowing the inner stalks to continue to grow. Or, you can harvest the entire plant when stalks are at least 6" tall. Cut with a sharp knife at or just below soil level. Harvest should occur before the first hard frost. Celery leaves and seeds are also edible.
Endive/Escarole - Harvest when plants are 12" to 15" across. The entire head can be cut off at the base. In spring, harvest before temperatures get above 90 degrees F. Some people peel away the outer leaves, as they tend to be tougher and more bitter than inner leaves. "Greens" can actually be harvested anytime in a "cut-and-come again" fashion for the tasty, tender greens. This is particularly good when seeds are planted too late in spring and warm weather is approaching too quickly, threatening to cause plants to bolt. In fall, harvest after the first couple of light frosts; flavor is actually improved with light frost.
Kale, Chinese - Whole plants should be harvested just before the flower buds open. (In ideal conditions, the plant will be 8"-10" tall and stalks will be ¾" thick.) Or, you can pick the center bud stalks first, allowing the side branches to continue to produce flower buds for a second crop.
Kale - Young leaves can be harvested at any time and make wonderful salad greens. Pick the outer leaves periodically as the plant continues to grow. A light fall frost (28-33 degrees F) makes the leaves taste even sweeter. Continue harvesting up until the first hard frost. In mild climates, mulch plants well to continue harvesting through winter.
Kohlrabi - Harvest when round portions are 2"-3" wide. Kohlrabi gets tough and woody as plants grow larger. Kohlrabi leaves are also edible.
Leek - Leeks can be harvested at any stage, but for full-sized leeks, harvest when they are 1" in diameter. Use a garden fork to loosen the soil and then pull them up. Leeks tend to hold a lot of dirt, so rinse thoroughly. Leeks tolerate temperatures as low as 25 degrees F and can be harvested after a few light frosts. Mulch around leek plants with compost, leaves, or straw to extend the harvest into late fall (or through the winter in warm climates).
Lettuce, Butterhead - You can pick individual outer leaves before the head forms. Once the head forms, harvest the entire plant as soon as possible by cutting off the entire plant at ground level. A favorite use is to twist out the small interior head to make a lettuce "bowl" with the remaining leaf base and fill it with your favorite cold salad.
Lettuce, Crisphead - Head lettuce should be harvested in the early morning. Heads can be harvested when 4" wide and should be harvested no more than two weeks after reaching mature size of 6".
Lettuce, Leaf - Pick individual leaves anytime or shear the entire plant to 2" above the ground when plant is up to 10" in diameter. The earlier the harvest, the more tender the crop.
Lettuce, Mesclun - Mescluns can be harvested when very young for tender "baby greens" when they are 2"-3" tall. Or, they can be grown to a more mature size for heartier salad material by shearing plants to 1" above ground when plants are 4"-6" tall.
Lettuce, Romaine - Pick individual outer leaves as plant grows or shear entire plant to 2" above ground when plant is 8"-12" tall.
Mache - Harvesting can begin as tasty young seedlings. Simply cut off at ground level. Individual leaves can be picked when they are 1"-2" long. You can also wait and harvest the entire head at once if you need large quantities of leaves. Some people harvest heads when they are quite small and serve as a gourmet, baby salad.
Micro Greens - Micro greens should be harvested at a minimum when there are at least two true leaves or when the plants are 1"-2" in height. Harvest by cutting the plants just above the soil line. Rinse and use immediately.
Mustard - Harvest individual leaves from the plant as needed. Flavor is milder and texture is best when young. Entire plant may be harvested by cutting 1"-2" above soil line. New leaf growth may occur after this. If plant bolts (sends up a seed stalk), foliage becomes bitter and inedible, but the yellow flowers are an attractive addition to salads.
Onion, Bunching - These onions can be harvested any time during the growing season before they begin to bulb.
Onion, Bulbing - Grow until the tops fall over. When 50% of the tops have fallen over and are lying on the ground, knock the rest over. A week or two later when much of the foliage has dried, use a pitchfork to dig up the onions. Do not remove foliage. Dry the onions in the sun for a couple of days. When ready to use, cut off foliage, 1" above the bulb.
Parsnip - Dig roots with a shovel or garden fork, being careful not to cut or damage the roots. For best flavor, leave parsnips in the ground for at least two weeks after a hard frost in fall. Roots can be left in the ground through winter for continual harvesting if you mulch heavily with straw or compost to prevent the soil from freezing. You can also improve the sweetness by harvesting the roots in the fall and storing them at 32-34 degrees F for two weeks before using.
Peas, Shelling and Snap - Harvest when the pods are plump, about 3 weeks after flowering. Peas that are too mature will cause the plant to stop producing. Therefore, it is important to harvest daily. Use scissors to harvest or hold vine with one hand and pick pod with the other as vines are brittle. Young foliage tips and blossoms are also edible and make a lovely addition to gourmet salads.
Peas, Snow - Harvest when pods are flat, before the seeds start to form. Peas that are too mature will cause the plant to stop producing. Therefore, it is important to harvest daily. Use scissors to harvest or hold vine with one hand and pick pod wit the other as vines are brittle. Young foliage tips and blossoms are also edible and make a lovely addition to gourmet salads.
Radish, Rat Tail - Harvest pods when about the thickness of a pencil and from 3"-12" long. Harvest regularly to encourage plants to produce more pods. Mature pods become hard, tough, and bitter tasting, so they should be picked and discarded. Young radish leaves are also edible and make a spicy addition to salads.
Radish, Spring - Harvest spring radishes at any point up until they have achieved mature size (1" diameter for Cherry Belle and Easter Egg, 3"-4" long for French Breakfast, 3"-4" diameter for "Crimson Giant"). If they are allowed to grow larger or the plant bolts (sends up a seed stalk), they become pithy and hot. Young radish leaves are also edible and make a spicy addition to salads.
Radish, Summer (White Icicle) - Harvest when radish is 5" long or shorter. If they are allowed to grow larger or the plant bolts (sends up a seed stalk), they become pithy and hot. Young radish leaves are also edible and make a spicy addition to salads.
Radish, Winter - Can be harvested at any size. Harvest in late fall or early winter before the ground freezes. Sweet flavor is best when crop matures quickly. Winter radishes will hold longer in the ground than spring or summer radishes, extending the harvest period. (Mature size: Daikon - 2"-4" in diameter, 6"-20" long. Watermelon Mantang Hong - 3.25" in diameter.)
Spinach - Pick individual leaves from the outer edges as they become big enough to use or cut the whole plant 1" above the base and new leaves will grow. Harvest before the plant bolts (sends up a seed stalk).
Swiss Chard - The best quality leaves are 10" or shorter. Pick individual outer leaves as desired or harvest the entire plant by cutting it 2" above the base, and it will grow new leaves. A fairly cold tolerant annual, Swiss Chard can withstand light to moderate frost. In cold climates, mulching soil in early winter can allow harvest all the way up to late December. It can survive the winter in mild climates and will send up a seed stalk in the second year that should be removed. However, Swiss Chard tastes best in the first season, so ideally should be started fresh from seed each season.
Turnips - For the most tender roots, harvest when turnips are no larger than 2" in diameter. Greens should be harvested when young and tender. When harvesting green tops, leave 4" of foliage to continue root production.
Cool Season Vegetable Frost Tolerance
Can withstand light frost (28-33 degrees F): Artichokes, Arugula, Beets, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chinese Cabbage, Endive, Lettuce, Parsnips, Peas, Radicchio,
Swiss Chard
Can withstand hard frost (below 28 degrees F): Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Leeks, Mache, Mustard, Onions, Parsley, Peas, Radishes, Spinach, Turnips
Happy Gardening and Happy Harvesting!
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