Friday, November 28, 2008
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Monday, November 24, 2008
Holiday arrangements for your table!
Brighten up your table with custom Holiday arrangements!
• Ask us about special orders – we can put together an array of fresh cut greens in a personalized arrangement! •
Available in Danville, Pierce Street (Marina) and Kentfield locations!
Saturday, November 22, 2008
Friday, November 21, 2008
All ornaments are on SALE -- 40% off!
This holiday season, shop at Sloat Garden Center and save! Take 40% off our entire ornament collection and take 20% off all Permalit Perpetual Trees.
Shop local. Shop Sloat Garden Center.
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Is that lovely plant toxic?
IS THAT LOVELY PLANT TOXIC?
By Julie Segerstrom, http://www.mastergardener.org/ December 2004
Julie Segerstrom has been a Master Gardener since 1996. She gleaned information on poisonous plants from the ucdavis.edu website and in Edible and Poisonous Plants of Northern California, by James Wiltens.
Many lovely and common plants in our landscapes are poisonous. Poisonous plants evolved toxic compounds as protection against predators and disease. If a plant is poisonous, it doesn’t mean you can’t own it—just be aware of and protect others from its possible consequences.
Many plant poisons can affect the central nervous system, paralyzing basic function. Others cause cell and organ damage, while some destroy function slowly over a long period of time.
The amount that causes poisoning is often difficult to specify. In some plants one leaf is fatal and for others it takes an entire cup of seeds.
The California Poison website (http://www.calpoison.org/) stresses their slogan: Don’t Guess. Be Sure. When you buy a plant from a nursery, make sure it is labeled or that you know at least the common name.
Keeping plants out of reach, both outside and inside, is necessary for little ones. Children should be taught to never put plants or mushrooms in their mouth. Babies should never be allowed to suck on necklaces made of seeds. Many plants are also poisonous to pets and livestock.
Some parts of a plant can be edible and other parts of the plant poisonous. For examples, we eat the fruit of tomatoes and the tubers of potatoes, but the leaves and vines, if made into tea, are poisonous. In other plants, the berries are poisonous--mistletoe, asparagus and lantana. Seeds are poisonous in some plants, such as apples and peaches.
If it seems unlikely to be eating berries and making tea of plants, remember that children playing make-believe outside might innocently decide to use what is around them in the yard.
One interesting and toxic plant family is called Climbing Nightshade. The genus name is derived from the Latin word which means quieting. Nightshade poisons have a quieting or narcotic effect on the respiratory system. A poison derived from the nightshade family might have been what Shakespeare had in mind when Juliet took a drink to give her the semblance of death.
The common morning glory has seeds that contain alkaloids and LSD-like compounds. During the 60’s, potent brews of pulverized seeds (about 50) would produce hallucinations, nausea, convulsions and at times death. The Aztecs used morning glory to induce psychic religious visions.
Another poisonous plant we see in the foothills, mistletoe, contains toxins that have taken the lives of children who have eaten the berries. Tea brewed from the leaves is also toxic. Some pigs and goats can eat mistletoe without injury but cattle have died from eating the leaves. Conversely, birds regularly eat the mistletoe berries. This points out that the old wives tale that says, “if one animal eats it, it is safe for another animal” is simply not true!
The name poison hemlock gives you some idea of its danger. This is a seriously poisonous plant responsible for many deaths, the most famous being the dramatic end of Socrates’ life.
You may have heard that poinsettia is poisonous, but it is considered to be only mildly toxic, causing vomiting, diarrhea and dermatitis. It would require eating a large amount of poinsettia leaves to cause these effects.
Castor bean is another highly poisonous plant. All parts of the plant contain ricin, a severe irritant. As little as one seed can kill a child and three can kill an adult. Naturally, castor oil comes from the castor bean plant. The oil is not toxic because ricin is not soluble in the oil. In addition, heat kills ricin and the seeds are roasted for one hour before pressing the oil from them.
Probably the most well known poisonous plant is oleander. Using branches of oleander to cook food is enough to cause poisoning. Oleander contains over 50 toxic compounds! It’s even dangerous to burn oleander clippings and prunings because the poison is carried in the smoke.
Some weeds are toxic to livestock as well. Fiddleneck is common in the foothills and causes liver damage. Toxins are metabolized in the liver into highly reactive compounds that cause cell damage. Small amounts eaten over a long period of time, even only seasonally, cause small deteriorating changes often unnoticed until it’s too late—the organ damage is too severe. When clinical signs are overlooked, a large portion of the liver is destroyed.
Another common weed, yellow starthistle causes irreversible necrosis (death) of brain cells in horses.
Poisons are contained in many of the most loved and beautiful plants—azaleas, delphinium, daffodils, iris, foxglove and even oak trees. Naturally adults will not sample their “tea,” but just be prepared for little adventurous ones who might visit you in the future.
See you in the garden.
By Julie Segerstrom, http://www.mastergardener.org/ December 2004
Julie Segerstrom has been a Master Gardener since 1996. She gleaned information on poisonous plants from the ucdavis.edu website and in Edible and Poisonous Plants of Northern California, by James Wiltens.
Many lovely and common plants in our landscapes are poisonous. Poisonous plants evolved toxic compounds as protection against predators and disease. If a plant is poisonous, it doesn’t mean you can’t own it—just be aware of and protect others from its possible consequences.
Many plant poisons can affect the central nervous system, paralyzing basic function. Others cause cell and organ damage, while some destroy function slowly over a long period of time.
The amount that causes poisoning is often difficult to specify. In some plants one leaf is fatal and for others it takes an entire cup of seeds.
The California Poison website (http://www.calpoison.org/) stresses their slogan: Don’t Guess. Be Sure. When you buy a plant from a nursery, make sure it is labeled or that you know at least the common name.
Keeping plants out of reach, both outside and inside, is necessary for little ones. Children should be taught to never put plants or mushrooms in their mouth. Babies should never be allowed to suck on necklaces made of seeds. Many plants are also poisonous to pets and livestock.
Some parts of a plant can be edible and other parts of the plant poisonous. For examples, we eat the fruit of tomatoes and the tubers of potatoes, but the leaves and vines, if made into tea, are poisonous. In other plants, the berries are poisonous--mistletoe, asparagus and lantana. Seeds are poisonous in some plants, such as apples and peaches.
If it seems unlikely to be eating berries and making tea of plants, remember that children playing make-believe outside might innocently decide to use what is around them in the yard.
One interesting and toxic plant family is called Climbing Nightshade. The genus name is derived from the Latin word which means quieting. Nightshade poisons have a quieting or narcotic effect on the respiratory system. A poison derived from the nightshade family might have been what Shakespeare had in mind when Juliet took a drink to give her the semblance of death.
The common morning glory has seeds that contain alkaloids and LSD-like compounds. During the 60’s, potent brews of pulverized seeds (about 50) would produce hallucinations, nausea, convulsions and at times death. The Aztecs used morning glory to induce psychic religious visions.
Another poisonous plant we see in the foothills, mistletoe, contains toxins that have taken the lives of children who have eaten the berries. Tea brewed from the leaves is also toxic. Some pigs and goats can eat mistletoe without injury but cattle have died from eating the leaves. Conversely, birds regularly eat the mistletoe berries. This points out that the old wives tale that says, “if one animal eats it, it is safe for another animal” is simply not true!
The name poison hemlock gives you some idea of its danger. This is a seriously poisonous plant responsible for many deaths, the most famous being the dramatic end of Socrates’ life.
You may have heard that poinsettia is poisonous, but it is considered to be only mildly toxic, causing vomiting, diarrhea and dermatitis. It would require eating a large amount of poinsettia leaves to cause these effects.
Castor bean is another highly poisonous plant. All parts of the plant contain ricin, a severe irritant. As little as one seed can kill a child and three can kill an adult. Naturally, castor oil comes from the castor bean plant. The oil is not toxic because ricin is not soluble in the oil. In addition, heat kills ricin and the seeds are roasted for one hour before pressing the oil from them.
Probably the most well known poisonous plant is oleander. Using branches of oleander to cook food is enough to cause poisoning. Oleander contains over 50 toxic compounds! It’s even dangerous to burn oleander clippings and prunings because the poison is carried in the smoke.
Some weeds are toxic to livestock as well. Fiddleneck is common in the foothills and causes liver damage. Toxins are metabolized in the liver into highly reactive compounds that cause cell damage. Small amounts eaten over a long period of time, even only seasonally, cause small deteriorating changes often unnoticed until it’s too late—the organ damage is too severe. When clinical signs are overlooked, a large portion of the liver is destroyed.
Another common weed, yellow starthistle causes irreversible necrosis (death) of brain cells in horses.
Poisons are contained in many of the most loved and beautiful plants—azaleas, delphinium, daffodils, iris, foxglove and even oak trees. Naturally adults will not sample their “tea,” but just be prepared for little adventurous ones who might visit you in the future.
See you in the garden.
Friday, November 14, 2008
Controlling Annual Weeds, from www.yardener.com
Minimize Soil Disturbance - There are a number of effective techniques for reducing annual weeds in the flower bed. These techniques either break the reproductive cycle of the weeds already on your property, or they keep new weeds from getting into the area in the first place. The best way to control annual weeds is to prevent them from emerging. That means minimizing the disturbance of the soil and then mulching the garden beds very well. You minimize disturbing the soil because there are 20,000 to 30,000 weed seeds under every square foot of your garden bed just waiting to be exposed to light so they can germinate. Every time you dig a hole to plant another perennial, you are exposing hundreds and thousands of weed seeds to likely germination if nothing is done. We assume that the first time you establish the bed or garden you must dig it up and perhaps even rototill the area to get the soil prepared. After that you should have the whole bed covered with 3 to 4 inches of organic mulch all year round. From then on you disturb only that portion of the bed where you are adding a plant, planting some seeds or bulbs, or transplanting a plant.
Mulch to Control Annual Weeds - The absolute best way to solve an annual weed problem and prevent it from ever coming back is to use a layer of organic mulch during the entire year. Mulch does a number of good things for the flower garden, and weed control is one of them. A 3 to 4 inch layer of wood chips, pine needles, chopped leaves, or shredded bark mulch over the surface of the growing bed prevents almost all annual weeds from getting a chance to even germinate. Those few weeds that pop up through the mulch where landscape plants protrude are easily pulled by hand.
Pulling Annual Weeds - Routinely pull a few weeds each visit to the garden beds and the weed pulling never becomes an overwhelming task. Try to get rid the garden of annual weeds within the first 3 weeks of their emergence, before they have a chance to develop seeds. Weeds are easiest to uproot right after a rain, when the soil is damp. It is important to pull up the roots, rather than just breaking off the stem. Grasp them between the thumb and forefinger down at the base of the weed at the soil. Pull slowly and steadily, rather than jerking the weed abruptly out of the soil. As the season progresses, the number weeds appearing should diminish.In fact, pulling up all the annual weeds that appear in a season will result in only about half as many weeds the next year, and half again the third year, assuming the bed stays mulched all year long. In two to three years you will have almost none. The key is keeping the mulch at least 2 inches thick all year.
Mulch to Control Annual Weeds - The absolute best way to solve an annual weed problem and prevent it from ever coming back is to use a layer of organic mulch during the entire year. Mulch does a number of good things for the flower garden, and weed control is one of them. A 3 to 4 inch layer of wood chips, pine needles, chopped leaves, or shredded bark mulch over the surface of the growing bed prevents almost all annual weeds from getting a chance to even germinate. Those few weeds that pop up through the mulch where landscape plants protrude are easily pulled by hand.
Pulling Annual Weeds - Routinely pull a few weeds each visit to the garden beds and the weed pulling never becomes an overwhelming task. Try to get rid the garden of annual weeds within the first 3 weeks of their emergence, before they have a chance to develop seeds. Weeds are easiest to uproot right after a rain, when the soil is damp. It is important to pull up the roots, rather than just breaking off the stem. Grasp them between the thumb and forefinger down at the base of the weed at the soil. Pull slowly and steadily, rather than jerking the weed abruptly out of the soil. As the season progresses, the number weeds appearing should diminish.In fact, pulling up all the annual weeds that appear in a season will result in only about half as many weeds the next year, and half again the third year, assuming the bed stays mulched all year long. In two to three years you will have almost none. The key is keeping the mulch at least 2 inches thick all year.
Thursday, November 13, 2008
How to Pick a Tree for Your Space
First, have a look around your neighborhood. Which trees seem healthy? Do any drop copious amounts of leaves? These could be a slippery hazard in damp weather (or do they drop quickly and cleanly to make a golden carpet like the beauteous Ginkgo Biloba?)
Next, do a little research in the Sunset Western Garden book. What will be the mature height and width of the canopy? Will there be utility wires above the young tree?
It will be easier and less costly to choose a small to medium tree, instead of paying someone to constantly prune a large tree to fit the space. Pittosporum crassifolia/eugenioides are lovely for screening or framing a view.
Fruit trees are grown nowadays on dwarf, semi-dwarf and even ultra-dwarf root stock, making them perfect for the city garden. Apples, plums, pears and lemon trees do very well in coastal gardens. For those in the warmer areas, peaches, nectarines and apricots are available. Think of it, fresh organic fruit, straight from the tree to your table.
If you are planting in a lawn choose a tree that can tolerate regular water (Citrus, Cornus “Redtwig”, Acer palmatum). Expect the lawn to be thinner under the shade of the tree. Leave a circle around the root collar of the tree unplanted, to avoid injuring the roots from needless digging in the root zone. This will also prevent trunk injury from weed-whackers and runaway mowers. Remember the Feeder Roots live in the first six inches below the soil surface. These provide the major portion of the absorption surface of a tree’s root system. They compete directly with the roots of grass and other ground covers. If the idea of bare space offends you, place a few pots of flowers/colorful foliage in the circle.
Next, do a little research in the Sunset Western Garden book. What will be the mature height and width of the canopy? Will there be utility wires above the young tree?
It will be easier and less costly to choose a small to medium tree, instead of paying someone to constantly prune a large tree to fit the space. Pittosporum crassifolia/eugenioides are lovely for screening or framing a view.
Fruit trees are grown nowadays on dwarf, semi-dwarf and even ultra-dwarf root stock, making them perfect for the city garden. Apples, plums, pears and lemon trees do very well in coastal gardens. For those in the warmer areas, peaches, nectarines and apricots are available. Think of it, fresh organic fruit, straight from the tree to your table.
If you are planting in a lawn choose a tree that can tolerate regular water (Citrus, Cornus “Redtwig”, Acer palmatum). Expect the lawn to be thinner under the shade of the tree. Leave a circle around the root collar of the tree unplanted, to avoid injuring the roots from needless digging in the root zone. This will also prevent trunk injury from weed-whackers and runaway mowers. Remember the Feeder Roots live in the first six inches below the soil surface. These provide the major portion of the absorption surface of a tree’s root system. They compete directly with the roots of grass and other ground covers. If the idea of bare space offends you, place a few pots of flowers/colorful foliage in the circle.
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
On Sale!!
Monday, November 10, 2008
Legal tussle over modified sugar beets
Legal tussle over modified sugar beets
Deborah K. Rich, Special to The Chronicle
Saturday, November 8, 2008
Home gardeners seldom grow sugar beets, but the commercialization of Roundup Ready sugar beets could toss genetically engineered DNA into many a garden-fresh salad unless a lawsuit prevails.
The suit, filed by the Center for Food Safety, Organic Seed Alliance, High Mowing Organic Seeds and the Sierra Club, is expected to be heard April 3 in U.S. District Court in San Francisco. It seeks to halt the planting, sale and use of Roundup Ready sugar beets until the U.S. Department of Agriculture conducts an in-depth environmental study of this latest genetically engineered crop. Roundup Ready sugar beets - which can withstand repeated applications of glyphosate, the active ingredient in Monsanto's Roundup herbicide - gain their chemical tolerance from a gene that Monsanto plucked from a soil bacterium and pasted into the sugar beet genome.
Friday, November 7, 2008
The best time of year for planting
Is Fall, of course!
Our rainy season has begun, but that doesn't mean you can't still do some gardening. In fact, right now is the best time plant. Leigh Glaser from View from the Bay visits with our own Jennie Strobel to find out how to cultivate a colorful winter.
Our rainy season has begun, but that doesn't mean you can't still do some gardening. In fact, right now is the best time plant. Leigh Glaser from View from the Bay visits with our own Jennie Strobel to find out how to cultivate a colorful winter.
Thursday, November 6, 2008
This just in!
Starting to think about the holidays?
For decorating, we carry 5 gallon and 2 gallon pines, rosemary cones, and deodar cedars (california christmas tree). In our Monrovia collection, we have Alberta spruce, Colorado blue spruce and Norway spruce in 2 and 5 gallon cans.
For decorating, we carry 5 gallon and 2 gallon pines, rosemary cones, and deodar cedars (california christmas tree). In our Monrovia collection, we have Alberta spruce, Colorado blue spruce and Norway spruce in 2 and 5 gallon cans.
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
November Plant Pick of the Month: Eurotree
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana is a cypress native to the United States from southwest Oregon to the far northwest of California. It is called the Euro Tree because it was discovered by Euro-Americans working as collectors for The Lawson & Son nursery in Edinburgh, Scotland. They are used as simple and versatile décor for both fall and winter holidays. Dress them up with acorns and raffia among some colorful leaves for fall. Reuse them again in the winter as small decorated Christmas trees with small ornaments and glass beads, pinecones, ribbons and bows.
In nature, the trees can become huge but there are many cultivars available in the horticultural trade that exhibit dwarf and globular forms. Two that interest us are the Elwood Cypress (C. lawsoniana Elwoodii) and the Citrus Cypress (C. lawsoniana Citriodora).
The Elwood Cypress’s growth habit is dense, compact and columnar attaining a height of 6 to 8 feet. The foliage is a feathery, dark green. The Citrus Cypress has a more open habit, not being quite so dense and growing to 8 or 10 feet. The foliage is more scaly than feathery but the color is a gorgeous chartreuse. Both have a pleasing aroma. The Citrus Cypress has a decidedly lemony scent. In the garden, they make handsome container specimens or hedgerows. These two varieties are what we see available in pots and tins from a diminutive 3” size on up to 8”, good sized specimens.
The natural habitat is a cool, moist climate. With most populations occurring along stream beds. Euro trees will do well planted out in our more coastal climates. Give them a partial sun aspect inland. A soil amended with peat moss or Forest Mulch Plus is ideal since they require a moist, well drained soil. For container plantings, use the Sloat Organic Potting Soil.
Saturday, November 1, 2008
Persuading bulbs to bloom
terrific article about bulb forcing...
The New York Times
Persuading Bulbs to Bloom
By ANNE RAVER
Published: October 29, 2008
GENTLER, kinder people don’t say “forcing” when they talk about planting bulbs indoors. They use words like “coaxing” and “persuading.”
Poppycock. If you are putting bulbs in the refrigerator or some other cold place that hovers around 40 degrees, you are tricking them into a false winter of dormancy and forcing them to bloom when you bring them out into a warm room.
I don’t know if the bulbs are screaming or singing for joy that they get to bloom early on a windowsill or a table. I don’t care about their feelings. Those bulbs are keeping me from the gloom and doom I feel on dark winter days.
One fall, I made the mistake of not forcing any bulbs, and the holidays seemed a little empty, sort of like the Thanksgiving I decided to cook pork roast instead of turkey.
The rest of the article can be viewed here
The New York Times
Persuading Bulbs to Bloom
By ANNE RAVER
Published: October 29, 2008
GENTLER, kinder people don’t say “forcing” when they talk about planting bulbs indoors. They use words like “coaxing” and “persuading.”
Poppycock. If you are putting bulbs in the refrigerator or some other cold place that hovers around 40 degrees, you are tricking them into a false winter of dormancy and forcing them to bloom when you bring them out into a warm room.
I don’t know if the bulbs are screaming or singing for joy that they get to bloom early on a windowsill or a table. I don’t care about their feelings. Those bulbs are keeping me from the gloom and doom I feel on dark winter days.
One fall, I made the mistake of not forcing any bulbs, and the holidays seemed a little empty, sort of like the Thanksgiving I decided to cook pork roast instead of turkey.
The rest of the article can be viewed here
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